Anyone have experience with the PH-1000 and tube stage

@ulcerdoc the key to the ref 10 and VTL 6.5 is lower PS noise floor. As you lower the noise you get better resolution. The other factor both offer is much wider bandwidth than either of the others. 

Another option would be look for a used VTL 6.5 series 1. They come up every so often for sale in the 3.5k to 4k range. at that price point not much will touch it. 

There are also improvements you can do to the Chinook to lower its noise floor. 

1. add .01uf bypass caps to the rectifier diodes to lower their noise floor.  

2. on the rear input panel replace the metal film loading resistors with Vishay S102 foil types. This alone will lower the noise floor 2-4 db over metal film. 

I was in your boat a few years ago. Had moved up from the Chinook to the steelhead. Was quite happy with it. Until a friend let me borrow their TP 6.5 series 1. It was a 2 second test. After that was tough to return to the steelhead. 

I'll be the first to admit it was a tough pill to swallow since I was set on the steelhead and thought it was my end game phono stage. 

The REF 10 is new enough may be tough to find one on the used market. 

I replaced the load resistors in my Steelhead with “nude Vishay” resistors sold by Texas Instruments, TX2575. To my ears these easily surpass the S102 in transparency. Also, you’re missing a bet if you don’t replace the coupling capacitors (see above). You might change your mind about the VTL if you try the cap mod.

Lewm

Thanks very much for sharing your experience and the detailed suggestions — I really appreciate you taking the time to outline what you’ve tried with your Steelhead.

I’ve just taken delivery of a brand-new RC, so for now my plan is to spend some time with the unit exactly as Manley designed it, let the tubes settle in, and get a firm baseline on its sound in my system before I consider any internal changes. I may do some careful tube rolling down the line, but I’d like to get to know the stock voicing first and fully understand how it interacts with my cartridges and setup.

Once I’ve lived with it for a while, I’ll revisit the question of upgrades — but I want to be sure any modifications are genuinely necessary and consistent with the design intent, especially on a new unit still under warranty.

Thanks again for the insight — it’s always helpful to hear what others have tried, even if I’m not quite ready to start doing surgery on mine just yet.

Lewm:

Just saw the earlier post.  

Thanks for the thoughts — and yest that was just my own description, not something I quoted. I agree the hybrid autoformer/active setup raises interesting questions, but without a published schematic I’m happy to trust Manley’s design choices for now. Since mine is brand new, I’m planning to live with it stock and get a solid baseline before diving into theory or mods. Appreciate the discussion.

Good idea not to void the warranty by modifying it. I bought mine pre-owned from canada, out of warranty. So I felt free to alter the parts as I did.