Eliminating spade connectors, upgrading bits, soldering all of it in


Sharing, fwiw. Following a practice a local upgrade colleague did inside a Class A amplifier for me, I recently did the same type of thing on a pair of custom speakers I built for myself a few years back. The idea is around eliminating the last of any low grade connections I could find to see if I could upgrade the sound a little more.  Finally got some time to do it recently, and reporting first results and questions floating around in my head now. Wished I had gotten to this sooner, actually.   

Changes:

1. Removed a quad of quality gold plated spade connectors from speaker crossovers to rear speaker terminal (bi-wire binding posts) on the back of my main audio system speakers.   

2. Removed average run of the mill brass gold plated speaker terminals you can buy at Madisound or Solen. I always intended to replace these, and finally got to it. 

3. Added Cardas Copper binding posts, two pairs, for bi-wire configuration speaker connections to replace the prior pairs just removed. Sat in boxes a few years...

4. Soldered everything back together with Cardas solder thus elminating all prior quality gold spade connectors, internal speaker wire soldered directly. All spades eliminated. 

5. Also noting these new/better and more secure connections from my existing Cardas speaker cables to the new Cardas binding posts just installed

1st Listening Day:

Wishful thinking or not, I've been listening for a while, and something became immediately apparent now in question.  Woah, is it actually smoother on top and is the detail down into the upper midrange actually coming through with a little more and nicer "texture" now?  I could attest it seems like I can hear a little bit more "out there", too nah, really, hmmm. Really liking the added change with tone/texture. Puzzling.  

Setup - first testing with my Class A 50 watt solid state amplifier, and can say its already approching the smoothness of my tube amps in terms of tone, texture, and how it reveals details in a smooth way. The prior connections were good, nothing wrong, well crimped, I checked all of it before converting everything over. 

I really was NOT expecting this type of change, kinda scratching my head.  Its caused me to pause letting go of some of this gear too.

I'm not sure if anyone has encountered this kind of change with such [seemingly] small changes. Hmmm. Should have known better, my prior pair of speakers had everything all soldered in like this with no spades.  Maybe just a few weak links I had. Okay, just sharing in case anyone wants to comment or debate it at all. :) 

 

 

decooney

Its an "option" for those intrigued and motivated to make a change.  

Some of my former standard version reference speakers were all spade connected to crossovers and terminals.  The same speakers, if you wanted to send them in for upgrades to the "signature" version, were often times upgraded with connectors eliminated and soldered on at all internal connection points. Had a few pairs of standard and signature version Canadian made Totem Acoustic speakers set up like this, and compared both side by side on many occasions. 

My other tube preamp and monoblock tube amplifiers are 95% point to point wired soldered-in connections with minimalist number of connectors in the signal path. Primarily seen more in boutique low-volume production units with no factory imposed time limit on assembly. Sound better than my former circuit board based units too. So it kinda comes down to whatever floats your boat perhaps.  Enjoy!   

Attack - Coherence - Dynamics - Micro Dynamics - Envelope - Timbre - Tone

If anybody wants to experience these attractive elements within the structure of the sound be produced, they have to be worked for.

To form the opinion these elements that structure sound are able to be delivered with a defining presence is created by simply putting devices together, has a lot of experimenting to go through, if they really want to understand what is possible.

@decooney 
Congrats on taking this bold step to improving the sound of your system.

We've been doing this for decades.  I'm still stunned at times by the sonic improvements as a result of just "getting things out of the way that make it sound worse." Yes, you get the expected improvements in focus and detail.  But, the shocker (at least to me) is the sonic character changes for the better.  In other words, the tonality, balance, chord structures, etc are vastly improved resulting it a much more satisfying (and listenable) musical experience.

@gdaddy1 Good point about heat to those tinder tinsel leads, voice coils, ribbons, etc. Frankly, I hadn't thought of that.  Thanks for bringing it up.  I would like to add that when "stuff" is in the way, it has a tendency to introduce dynamic compression.  Also, the extra "slop" and "muddiness" makes signals stick around longer than they should.  Increasing dynamic range often results in the listener nudging the volume back a tad because a satisfying sound level is happening due to the fact that you're improving the dynamic headroom of the signal.  Improved (faster) transients present the signal for a shorter period of time to the driver (and tinsel leads) thus delivering less average power over a period of time.  Less chance of breaking something.

As mentioned spades/lugs are efficient in the manufacturing process.  But, they do offer one additional benefit for the manufacturer -- ease of in field service if required.  It does not take a tech (with soldering skills)  to pull a component in the field, and the manufacturer can often instruct the dealer (even the end user in some cases) to pull the component and ship it back to them for replacement.

And, finally, @gdaddy1 stated "Yes and it's not just one connection, it's lots of them."

As a race car designer once said:

"If you want to shave 100 pounds off a race car, you have to find 1,600 ways to save an ounce."

@waytoomuchstuff 

The first time I went to solder to the speaker tab I found the thickness of the metal required a higher/longer heat time in order to get the solder to properly 'flow' onto the tab.

I actually saw the effect of the heat run down the little tinsel lead. I think those little leads are coated with a varnish as a protective coating to prevent oxidation to the copper. As it heated up the color changed and it actually smoked a tiny bit. Yikes!

It requires a hot iron, a little flux on the tab and plenty of heat sink 'Play-Doh' on the tabs lower portion. After the joint is made you'll find the play-dough is completely dry and crumbly. It falls off easily. It absorbed all the heat perfectly and the tinsel remains unmolested.

If not done correctly there can be more harm than good.

Other than purely sonic benifits there is the point of durability and reliability. The solder joint with outperform over time. Mechanical connections can loosen due to vibration, thermal cycling, or oxidation, increasing resistance or causing intermittent failures. Soldered joints are far less prone to these issues, ensuring consistent performance over decades.

Good luck!

 

I just can't imagine doing something like this.  The amount of heat it takes for a proper solder joint for large gauge cable could totally destroy a circuit board!  

Then there is the issue of audio signals trudging through an amalgam of metals including lead vs a proper crimp joint of a pure metal conductor.  

Lastly,  you effectively destroy the resale value of that gear.

It may sound different, but for the above reasons I would never go down that road. 

Now, using a better connector---sure!