Diving into Power... Cable recs for my system and ears....?


Hello All,

 

I have been enjoying a full system upgrade over the past year... the interconnects and digital cables were an eye opener! Now I am bringing my attention to power...

I am currently running my components off a power strip that is 10' long... supposedly designed for audio. All my major components are plugged into this. This power strip is plugged into a wall outlet, which is shared with some lights etc. Also plugged into this power strip is my wifi router. 

 

I have a few questions:

-What is the most important in regards to impact to overall sound if I were to upgrade the power cords? My guess its: 1: Amp.... 2: DAC... 3: Streamer... is that right? Or is it the opposite? 

-Should I have an electrician setup a dedicated outlet to my electrical box, and run my main components off that? Is this worth it? or is there another setup between my electrical box and my components? Or if there is no detectible buzz, should I simply not bother?

-If I should begin looking into power cords as the first upgrade here, what cord would you recommend if I yearn for the following: Extreme startling presence and separation... magic midrange, highs blissful, voice acoustic jazz violin, piano... essentially startling presence as if the instrument is right there... 

I have been enjoying Anticables, and they have a well rated cable in the $300 range which supposedly is as good or better than $1000 cables... but I am open to recommendations...! 

 

Thank you all!

Richard

 

 

 

 

Currently my system (also outlined in my virtual system profile) is as follows:

    • SPEAKERS: Pure Audio Project Duet 15 Horn (Mundorf Silver Gold Oil Cap upgrade and customized crossover w/high pass filter and sweeter meds), Anticable 4.2 Flex Internal wire)
    • STREAMER: Nagra Streamer (Cardas Clear Coaxial)
    • DAC: HoloAudio Spring 2 Level 3 Kitsune edition (Silversmith Fidelium RCA Interconnects)
    • AMP: PrimaLuna Dialogue Premium HP Integrated (RAY TUBES EL34 Reserve power tubes, RADIOTECHNIQUE NOS 12AU7 Gain tubes w/Mullard NOS and Brimar NOS tubes (Anticables 4.2 Flex to speaker)
    • PHONO: Music Hall MMF-9 and McIntosh MP 100 Preamp (Audio-Technica AT160ML MM Cartridge, Anticable 7.3 and Silversmith fidelium Interconnects)
whyrichard

I had my electrician run 12 awg copper romex. 10 is more difficult to work with. 

As to Furutech GTX-D R outlets…keep in mind they are cool sounding and are softer overall than say Shunyata outlets. They also make your system sound absolutely horrible for 300hrs. Once broken in they’re quiet good but again, in my system I prefer Shunyata. I can’t tolerate that coloration that Furutech imparts for a long time. If you want to try it I would say go for it but avoid additional rhodium connectors in your system. 
I switch back and forth once in a while between shunyata and furu outlets and always go back to shunyata even if I switched just one component. Every system is different so go for it. Be ready for a real painful 300hrs + of break in

I am thinking of two dedicated lines. One with a Furutech GTX-D NCF Rhodium, and the other a Furutech GTX-D Gold... that way I can experiment a little. 

Here’s an older review you might still find useful — it’s the only head-to-head comparison of outlets I can recall and found it very interesting.  I came away thinking the cruzeFIRST Maestro outlet seemed like a good value ($99 now — see link below) and thoughtfully designed with a straight down the fairway kinda sound,  The Furutech GTX-D rhodium (maybe a prior version?) was also reviewed very favorably so should be of interest, and here’s a link to the review… 

https://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/equipment/0114/audiophile_ac_outlets.htm

https://www.cruzefirstaudio.com/maestro

I’m sure Shunyata makes great outlets as well and would consider @audphile1 impressions very seriously, but unfortunately they weren’t part of this review.  Hope this is somewhat helpful. 

Good thread on romex suggestions below;  Correct me if I am wrong @jea48 

Some 10 gauge romex is flat, I believe the 10/2, which is actually 3 wires which is all you need, but that is not good for noise as the wires run perfectly parallel. The advantage of the 10/3, which is 4 wires, one more than you need, is they are twisted inside the outer sheathing, which rejects noise much better. But the suggestion given in this thread is the cable within the outside aluminum cladding which is best for noise rejection? 

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/upcoming-move-questions-ethernet-cable-modem-router-ethernet-run/post?highlight=romex&postid=2827196#2827196

gbmcleod

I am familiar with the Furutech NCF receptacles, however I've only seen them in Rhodium plating.....if they were gold plated I might give them a try. Rhodium in almost any application (for me personally) is too bright/sibilant, maybe my ears are sensitive to it. However I have no issues with silver plated

@mclinnguyIf you want to install NM sheathed cable, (Romex Trade Name), you should use 2 conductor with ground, not 3 conductor with ground.

Better. than 2 wire with ground Romex cable.

Two conductor plus 1 ground MC (Metal Clad) is a good choice for Non-Isolated Ground A/V systems. MC cable contains a safety
grounding conductor (wire). The three conductors in the MC cable (Line, Neutral and Ground) are uniformly twisted, reducing both
induced voltages on the ground wire and radiated AC magnetic fields. The NEC article 250.118 (10)a prohibits the use of this cable for
isolated ground circuits because the metal jacket is not considered a grounding conductor, and it is not rated for fault current

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Better than 3 conductor with ground Romex, but not as good as Two conductor plus 1 ground MC (Metal Clad)

Two Conductor plus 2 ground MC (Metal Clad) may be used in an Isolated Ground installation, because the cable contains two
grounding conductors (one for safety ground and one for isolated ground).

The conductors are twisted, but the average proximity of the
hot conductor and the neutral conductor with respect to the isolated grounding conductor is not equal. Under load, this will induce a voltage along the length of the isolated ground wire, partially defeating the intent of isolation (see Ground Voltage Induction section of this paper).

From page 12

Same problem exists with 3 conductor with ground Romex cable.Three is company. Four is a crowd. What do you do with the bare unused wire? Just tape it off? It will act as an antenna. 

Something else to consider using 3 wire with ground Romex, a lot of it sold now days is flat,  not round spiral twisted. Unused conductor is a problem. 

10/3 Romex

 The black insulated conductor is the oddball. What will you do with it?

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