You will never know what you are missing if you don't try. Just do it.
Class A vs AB
Just curious, not sure if this question can be answered? Currently listening to a set of Fritz carbon 7SE Mk2 in smallish room, 14x14 door at either end, rock and roll at 85 to 90db. (Amp never leaves class A) This room powered by a Pass 250.8. At 90db (fritz 87 db sensitivity I believe, 8 OHM speaker) I am considering a pair or Arandal 1528's (84 db sensitivity I believe, 4 OHM) I understand each speaker is unique to itself. At 90 db listening level, give or take, with the 1528, other than running most likely in class AB, at higher volume setting, can u even identify the difference in AB vrs A or plainly too many variables. i guess part of me doesn't want to leave class A, as I have been used to it for some time in both of my systems. Robert TN
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- 20 posts total
You mention the level you play at but that's an average. If your music is dynamic with large momentary swings you need power to not clip them. And peaks can be 10, 20, even 30 dB and you will be out of class a. By the way, almost no push/pull(non single ended amp) is really pure class A. It's very rich class A switching to class B. For instance Nelson Pass's class A amps have a class A power rating but they typically have 2 to 3 times that power where they switch to class B momentarily so the peaks are clean. I wouldn't worry about staying class A. Stay with your amps and they are probably class A over 95% of the time.
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This link might provide some context. I would be mostly concerned that my amp would sufficiently deliver the power so that I could easily listen at the levels I want. As @hjdca said, you could give it a try. There is nothing wrong with the sound of a good Class AB amp and your amp was meant to cross seamlessly into AB as needed. |
- 20 posts total