+1 @markd51 -I've known Jim for a while, and used to pick his brain on cleaning issues and formulations. His brushes are good. I use the Monks brushes with a Monks Omni but use his #15 with a pure water rinse (I still have several gallons of reagent grade I, which is overkill).
I also agree that once a method is developed- and everyone has a different approach depending on time, equipment to hand and the condition of a given LP, that one should not try to make a "production" out of it-- I'll do 1/2 a dozen at a time, sometime a few more, running the Monks and a KL. That's usually sufficient at this point, given my intake of "new to me" records, most of which are older pressings.
Many of my records were originally cleaned 3 or more decades ago on an old VPI-- and in the early days, there were far fewer options in terms of fluids, equipment and the like.
I think there is a trade-off between effectiveness and convenience and a lot of people lean toward the latter. I only learned how to effectively clean (and did the legwork) once I started buying rare old pressings that, despite high grading, needed help. And learned that a lot of what I had written off as groove damage was simply contamination, often the result of haphazard prior "cleanings" that did more harm than good. Although there is no "magic bullet" I've been able to get virtually all of my records to an extremely high state of play. I'm not buying thrift shop stuff, but when buying old copies, there's a history to each one. I try to adjust my methods to address a particular copy's needs, and use an institutional quality flattener (DF-2, Furutech/Orb) to deal with warps.
Whoever said that you can only have two out of three--cheap, fast or effective-- is probably correct. I take my time.
