Help. System sounds thin and bright or harsh


Hope this isn't redundant tried to post in Tech Talk

Just moved my system to a new home/sound room and it still sounds harsh and a bit thin despite supposedly "warm" sounding Harbeth 30.1 speakers. This issue is not new and I had put the blame on the old listening room.  Can't figure out what the problem is. I listen loud at 80dcbl or higher and sit nearfield about 8 feet from the speaker plane. (sound is thin and bright from afar as well) I have experimented in both homes with speaker placement, toe-in and the like. Speakers are placed a lil over 3 feet from the rear wall and about two and a half feet from side walls.  I feel something is off. Perhaps a component or two that is known to be tipped up in the highs and a lil bass shy?? Also, I leave all solid state components fully powered up 24/7. (not the tubes)

System:

Modwright/Oppo BDP 105 disc player  (all mods with tubed power supply and pricey NOS tube upgrades throughout)  Looking to replace once the harshness/bright issue is nailed down.

Parasound JC2 Preamp

Pass Labs X250.5 Amp

Harbeth 30.1 stand mount speakers

Puritan Labs PSM 156 power conditioner. (less "edgy" sound with it in system)

System is run all balanced with fairly costly Cardas interconnects.

All input is welcome. Thanks in advance.

Happy listening.

 

 

cymivka

I have the HARBETH 30.2 XD’s that developed a digital “edge” and excess brightness that needed to be fixed.

(A) The HARBETHs are driven by a very beefy high-current REGA OSIRIS integrated amp.
(B) High- end audio sources are two fold;

- REGA ISIS VALVE cdp/DAC, and

- BRYSTON BDP-1USB digital player/ streamer/ network player feeding its stablemate BRYSTON BDA-2 DAC

- each in an independent discrete 20A dedicated circuit.

- cables were the ethereal challenge and finsl piece of the fix,

THE FIX FOR ME: - Cables were upgraded to a better synergy match. Read on.

I had an all-NORDOST FREY Ag-over-Cu cables array from a prior system . With the introduction of the HARBETHs something was now off …I upgraded to an all-CARDAS array sequentially with an unusual final upgrade choice change in the speaker cables.

Was:All NORDOST FREY array.

NOW: an all-CARDAS array replacing an all-NORDOST FREY array,

CARDAS CLEAR XLR interconnects

CARDAS CLEAR / CARDAS CLEAR REFLECTION power cables

CARDAS CLEAR REFLECTION speaker cables

 

(1): Careful model experimentation of cables matter

I was still frustrated by the cables upgrade lacking until Josh Meredith at CARDAS gave me a tip to fix it. Let me explain.

My sequential cables upgrade was ICs first, then the power cables, and finally the speaker cables.Each step was a sequential audio performance upgrade , but the legacy of the shotgunned flat ribbon silver coated copper ferrule NORDOST FREY speaker cables was leaving a residual “edge” that was still “off” with that annoying (albeit sequentially progressively less …)

I was torn between upgrading to the full Monty CARDAS CLEAR speaker cables or choosing the one model down CARDAS CLEAR REFLECTIONs. Josh Meredith at CARDAS ( hubby of Chief Operating Officer Angela Cardas Meredith ) gave me the key valuable tip fix,

He explained that they had a similar listening room to me with a lot of glass windows creating more acute stubborn hard reflection points. They started with CARDAS CLEAR speaker cables as part of their top model all-CARDAS CLEAR array, but it was still a lingering-issue for some brightness and digital edge. They now swapped down one model to the CARDAS CLEAR REFLECTION speaker cables ..,, a “warmer” signature tonality cable model …and presto ….. their problem solved. He said it’s their “go-to” model in bright or reflective rooms.

So I now followed his advice and did the same ,,,, CARDAS CLEAR REFLECTION speaker cables …and presto … problem solved for me too. Who knew? Go figger.


(2);AUDIO: SPEAKER CABLES - From Alan Shaw (owner and designer of HARBETH in support of experimenting with established speaker cable diameters)

The following excerpt echoed that beefier diameter CARDAS speaker cables were a better match for me than my very thin and flat ribbon NORDOSTs for my HARBETHs,

AUDIO SPEAKER CABLES - From Alan Shaw

” … So, the moral of the story is this: the most important factor of the loudspeaker cable that you should select is the amount of metal in the cable core. More metal means lower resistance.

If the core is round (as most are) then the correlation is simple: the fatter the diameter of the metal core the better because the electrical resistance between amp and speakerwill be lower.

Thin and really thin cores should be avoided regardless of how exotic the metal material is claimed as the lack of metal in the core conductor will increase resistance. That will reduce amplifier damping, affect the frequency response of the speaker and give unpredictable results that will vary from amp/speaker combination.

Do not be fooled by the diameter of the external plastic sheath: what matters is the metal content of the core. The more the better, without exception….”

 

(3) SPEAKER STANDS FOR HARBETHs DO MATTER

Your HARBETG speakers can perform a lot better if placed on quality build “ light” open-form design stands as recommended by HARBETH, (e.g. Tontraeger ...I have custom build bespoke clones done by a pro woodworker) and also properly positioned from the back wall and side walls ( min .75 m and 1 m respectively).
The HARBETHs are a thin-walled speaker stand design that resonate like a sound board on a STEINWAY.or STRAD. These open design speaker stands facilitate this. Heavy mass and rigid speaker stands are an impediment and disservice to their design.

https://www.tontraeger-audio.com/lang/en/reference-stands.html
https://vinylsound.ca/products/tontraeger-m30-1-reference-stands-for-harbeth-monitor-30-1

 

FWIW …

Hey AK g  that sounds very interesting. "digital edge" seems to hit home as to what I'm hearing along with "brightness" . Can't believe just the cables could make a dramatic difference.  My speaker cables are not cardas.  I got to look closer tomorrow, but they are short and fairly expensive around $1200 or so AND are bywire with low pass and high pass spade leads at each end. I double up the leads to use all of the cable.  Might try just the low pass and see if that changes the sound, then I might have a base point to try different cables.  Thanks..

Stands are Harbeth specific open wood, four posters.

Sounds like you need to add sub(s) and treat your room or get full range speakers and treat your room. Also, if you toe your speakers in directly at your listening position that usually makes the highs sound more pronounce. Try less toe in. But most likely room treatment and increasing the bass will get you what you’re looking for. 

To me the Harbeth M30.1 sounds warm.and slightly rolled off in the treble. I wouldn't be able to make it sound bright. If you couldn't figure out the problem to the brightness issue with the 30.1, perhaps try M30. It sounds excessively warm to me, much warmer than 30.1.