Install A Dedicated AC Line at home

I use a awg10  lowest resistance , my Electrician,Audiophile installed a 4 wire 

2 grounds ,one common ground ,the other a insulated isolated ground on a separate Copper buzz Bar, amd a 2 inch  4 ft long ground 

contacts bought commercial 30 amp breaker heavy silver plated copper breaker.

these streamers I tried this ground setups totally eliminated the need ,A little green computer , and uptone audio ether regen is excellent ,the only better 

then the Uptone audio Ethernet hub ,is the synergistic research but is expensive around $2k.   Streaming sounds so much better and buy the Motorola modem router combo it’s $270 on Amazon but excellent.

Would seem you need an electrician and a game plan. A simple question is can I get Dedicated 10 or 12 gauge wires from my fuse panel to my listening room. at this point it does not matter what you’re doing with it, you just want dedicated line information and possibilities. How many outlets you need depends on your equipment now or in the future. You do not have to listen to what crap others have and or why. No one online knows the electrical layout in your house, suggestions on what to buy… speculation, confusing, and a waste of time.

Cheers

Hi Zee,

Was a residential electrician/contractor several decades ago.  Also in Berkeley.  Here is what I would do if I were doing it for myself:

Run 12/3 (#12/3  conductors) metal clad cable (MCC) from the first electrical panel in the house.  That 3rd conductor allows you to create what is called a 3-wire circuit.  The 2 hot wires share the neutral and allow the loads to cancel each other out.  So if say you have 8 amps on one conductor and 5 on the other the neutral will only have a 3 amp load.  This reduces voltage drop as it shortens the return path for 5 amps of the load.  You have to pay a bit extra for the extra conductor and another circuit breaker but I think it's worth it, especially if you have or ever plan on betting monoblocks, you can put one on each circuit.    The MCC provides a metal sheathing around the conductors that is grounded which will prevent any EMI or EMF from radiating from the 120V conductors.  Not really sure that this is of any real concern but it gives some peace of mind.  I would also install the outlet in a metal box as opposed to plastic for the same reason.   Also a metal receptacle plate.  And finally I would probably use 15amp circuit breakers as long as the load would permit as this provides a bit of safety for your equipment in the event of a short.  I have used Grant Fivis at 650-291-2821 for my most recent electrical work.

You might also consider running another 12/2 cable for any future or present equipment that might be 240V.  It would be cheaper to do it all at one time rather than for it to be 2 separate jobs.

Following the recommendations of many a HiFi Guru, I’ve hired an licensed electrician to run 30 amp circuits with 10 gauge wire for my stereo gear. I told him I’d supply the PS Audio PowerPort Classic Outlets (I believe these are similar to the JPS Labs outlets shown above.)

Here’s my question — the electrician tells me that he connects a “tail” of 12 gauge wire to the heavier 10 gauge wire on the outlet end, making it easier to connect to the outlet. 

To my mind (a complete electrical newbie), this sounds like it defeats the purpose of installing the 10 gauge wire — to bring more robust electrical power from the circuit to the outlet to the stereo equipment. 

Can those of you who have more experience in this area share your wisdom so I don’t end up with a botched installation?

Thanks much.

Michael 

@sgreg1 

Is that free install and tax credit only for California ? I don’t drive an electric either but could use the free money!