Advice needed on power cables, wall warts, conditioning, electrical outlet


Hi everyone,

I would appreciate any advice on power cables, wall warts, power conditioning, better electrical outlet,  etc. 

If I have a power conditioner, with all of my equipment plugged into it with their stock cables, would upgrading the individual components’ power cable, wall wart etc. really help to improve the sound quality?  If yes, in what order of priority would you suggest?  Looking to make some low/moderate cost "tweaks" where it makes sense.

FWIW, here’s my setup:

  • 15 amp dedicated electrical circuit with standard home grade grounded electrical outlet.
  • Furman PL Plus-C power conditioner (repurposed from my music equipment studio rack) plugged into this AC outlet.  (Furman has a hardwired power cable, so I cannot easily swap it out)
  • All of my audio equipment plugs into the Furman: e.g. integrated tube amp, DAC, Sound Expander, ethernet to optical converter, Sonore Optical Rendu (feeds the DAC via USB), and Small Green Computer Roon server.
  • All components have their respective manufacturers’ standard issue power cord or wall wart.  (Sonore Optical Rendu with their Small Green Computer standard LPS).
  • TrendNet ethernet switch, not on the conditioner and uses wall wart.  CAT 8 to upstairs to my Asus router also wall wart and not on conditioner.
  • Asus router to Verizon FIOS ONT via CAT 8 ethernet.

Any advice and comments would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks a lot!

bogbeat

i would first start with having dedicated outlets installed.....and then see if the power conditioner is really needed or not.   from there, you can experiment with power cords to see if they make a difference or not.

he said he does

 

Paul McGowan writes:

“When we place an isolation transformer in the AC path we improve one area, cleanliness, by degrading another, regulation and impedance. An isolation transformer helps keep unwanted noise from the system at the cost of voltage regulation.

It turns out that voltage regulation is far more important than clean power. The greater the regulation the lower the impedance the better the sound quality.”

He suggests using an AC power regenerator (which PS Audio sells).

@bogbeat 

Really good suggestions above.  As mentioned I would replace your outlet(s) with something more robust.  Check your outlets for proper grounding and connection by using one of those cheap outlet testers. 

Regarding power cables the stock black ones sent with equipment are junk and are only meant to power up the equipment.  I was at a demonstration at a dealer where they were demonstrating power cables.  A really straightforward set up from an integrated to the speakers.  Only one power cable was changed.  We started with the stock cable and worked our way up to a $10k cable.  This was a very, very modest system with inexpensive monitor speakers.  My takeaway was that yes the stock cable was junk and the sweet spot for cables was in the $150 to $500 range (full retail). 

As @lak and others have stated the zavfino cables are wonderful.  You won't be able to build a cable that sounds as good for the money.  I have swapped out three of my power cables for the zavfino and they were cheaper than the cables I was using and sound better.  A member of our audio club has also purchased the zavfino cables and they are keepers for him and he has tested and owned more cables than I would ever approach.  They had been offering discounts on purchases.  The only downside of their cables is that they are stiff and if you are between lengths get the longer one.     

Well, Paul is correct. But he needs to continue: its the job of the amp’s (or preamp’s, but that’s less current-demanding) power supply to deliver that power. Regulation of the DC rails can eliminate this issue - if and only if there is sufficient headroom built into the power supply regulator (heat, money...). Large storage "banks" also deliver this.

 

But its also why i suggested a 1KW (VA actually) or bigger ISO transformer.  If i recall mine is between 2-3K V-A. A large class AB amp might draw 100-150 watts at idle and God knows on peaks (600? 800?) . Remember that every amp on the planet (save a carver) begins with a large isolation and step down transformer at its AC mains. How often does music, with its 10:1 peak-to-average ratio exceed a well designed power supplies ability to deliver r the peak? IMO not often. In general THAT internal transformer will be the limiting factor.

 

But this is also why i keep harping on the cost-benefit of some tweeks. Even if they "work" would the $500 per wire set be better spent on an amp or preamp that is designed well in the first place? All my testing and listening says yes.

 

But anyway Paul raises a valid point.

I am running Monsoon power cables and a Niagara 1200. I listened and decided to remove them all and replace with regular highly shielded " stock" cords. I was beyond shocked at how much the stock cords degraded the sound. Soundstage, and musical separation was gone. And my equipment sounded way less musical. I then repulsed in the Monsoons and the Niagara. 

I am moving up the line and will be selling the above. PM me if you are interested and I will make you a great deal.