Soldering Help

The comments auxinput makes about parts like the board being a heat sink are why it takes practice to solder well. Proper technique involves heating the parts to be soldered to where the solder will melt when touched to the wire. This ensures solder drawn well into the joint. Merely melting solder onto the joint can result in a cold solder joint, one that looks okay, but isn't, because the solder is merely covering and not really joining. 

It takes practice and experience. I started with a Dynamo as a kid and have done it a lot over the years, but even so it can take a bit of practice to get it down again if you haven't done it in a while.

Hello, Thank you all.  I am understanding some of the nuances better from your points. 

My project does not involve a board.  I bought a handmade tube preamp.  It is an incredible upgrade for sonically on many levels. We have been using it without the gain disable switch on.

When I flip the gain disable switch, music only comes from one channel.  

It is basically one wire to wire connection that needs to be soldered.

I might know a guy down in Greenfield, Mass who repaired my son's guitar amp a while back.  I could give him a call and see. 

It is just the is question of the time and cost for someone else to do it compared to buying some equipment and trying to learn something new myself.

Point to point wiring, love it, only way I go with pre and amps these days.

I agree, temp of gun varies with amount of heat sink working with, binding posts can take much heat. Just need to protect other in circuit components with their own heat sink.

rodman99999,

 Many thanks for posting the article about the 5 family types of solder. It explains so much more than I knew previously. Wonder Solder was a longtime choice for me, but after reading this, I must seek out some of the other products available. In the past, I have tried various solders products and many times was disappointed with the performance as a whole. I have had an interest in silver bearing solder, but again the results were dull looking joints. 

 Maybe you can point me in the right direction about a silver bearing solder and temperature that might best for a given choice. 

@4krowme -

     You're welcome.

     I've encountered solders, whose flux chemistry made the finished product look, "dull".   Flux removal brought out the shine.

     There are other, more compelling reasons for flux removal, than aesthetics, of course*.

     *Good stuff, here: https://www.chemtronics.com/do-you-need-to-clean-flux

     Then again: I have seen cold solder joints that appeared dull, without the other signs/visuals, that would indicate a faulty joint.    That makes the case for an iron and large enough tip, to maintain a recommended temp, as well as sufficient/proper application of the heat (time, tinning and tip position.

      Regarding a good, silver-bearing solder: as mentioned:      https://www.amazon.com/Cardas-Soldering-Eutectic-Silver-Solder/dp/B015X68HXW

      Adhere to their temp recommendations, follow good soldering guidelines and you can't go wrong!

                                Happy holidays and hobbying!