A full range speaker?


Many claim to be, but how many can handle a full orchestra’s range?

That range is from 26hz to around 12khz including harmonics, but the speakers that can go that low are few and far between. That is a shame, since the grand piano, one of the center points of many orchestral and symphonic performances, needs that lower range to produce a low A fully, however little that key is used.

I used to think it was 32hz, which would handle a Hammond B-3’s full keyboard, so cover most of the musical instruments range, but since having subs have realized how much I am missing without those going down to 25hz with no db’s down.

What would you set as the lower limit of music reproduction for a speaker to be called full range?

 I’m asking you to consider that point where that measurement is -0db’s, which is always different from published spec's.
128x128william53b
This may be useful for some - here's a Sound on Sound page with a link to a frequency chart in the top right corner. Fundamental notes are within the range of 16Hz to 9kHz, with harmonics going much further up in frequency. If you don't listen to a lot of pipe organ music then a lower bound of 30Hz will include all the fundamentals e.g. if you mostly listen to rock music low B on a 5/6 string bass is 30Hz and you'll hear everything a 22" bass drum has to offer from around 55Hz up.
Providing you have a loudspeaker that will play low enough the room will dominate the frequency response below the low 100s of Hertz. As loudspeaker placement is key to getting the best low frequency response it can be beneficial to allow one or more sub woofers to take on this duty. In a large, acoustically controlled space this is not so much of a problem and it matters less if the low frequencies are coming from the same cabinet as the bass, mid and high.
The high frequency response is bounded by our ability to hear and 20kHz is well outside of this range assuming most of us are beyond our teenage years. There may well be recorded content above this arbitrary limit but I won't be able to hear it and so I don't miss it if it's not reproduced.
So for me 30Hz-20kHz is fine and I'm not sure I'd notice too much if it was a smaller range than that. I build equipment (not loudspeakers) to exceed 20Hz to 20kHz because that is the defacto standard.
djones, a rising response from 100 Hz down to 20 Hz with 20 Hz up 6 dB does not produce fat bass. Fat bass is produced by a peak in the 80 to 160 Hz region. Pushing the response up at 20 Hz gives you that sense of a live performance at less than ear shattering levels. Push it too high and the bass becomes disjointed, you know you are listening subwoofers. You should never know you are listening to subwoofers. 
@motzartfan

It’s fairly simple in the end, the elusive balanced tone.

Driver relationship and harmonic fidelity are more dependent on surface area than ability to reproduce a particular tone at a geometric relationship to surface area.
Your sub surface area and your woofers relative relationship are more important than your subs ability to reproduce it’s lowest coherent frequency. 

In order to couple the two you should consider the Golden Ratio math equivalency relationship to produce natural lower extension to the main speakers.

Buying a bigger sub, surface area wise, with a lower power amp, and having to throttle it back is preferable to a smaller driver size with a bigger amp; all punch and no depth.

All drivers have unbelievable turbulence in the cone area, and smaller drivers magnify that by needing a greater X-max to reproduce a particular tone. Ideally, a 10” woofer should have a 20.1” sub to mathematically couple, sans room effects.

I’m settling for 18” short throw paper cone, extremely light and ridged, right now in my studio. And at about ⅓ power it feels perfect.
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mijostyn4,659 posts07-14-2021 7:10amdjones, a rising response from 100 Hz down to 20 Hz with 20 Hz up 6 dB does not produce fat bass. Fat bass is produced by a peak in the 80 to 160 Hz region. Pushing the response up at 20 Hz gives you that sense of a live performance at less than ear shattering levels. Push it too high and the bass becomes disjointed, you know you are listening subwoofers. You should never know you are listening to subwoofers.

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Yet another lzaer guided missle.
I mean this post really nails it.
Subs are *boomy** = un-musical, = anti=musical = anti high fidelity, 
Bug deal your sub goes to 10hz, I could care less. 
its Your subs 80-160hz region that makes ** fat* *Ugly* *Boomy* bass distortion, = YUCKKKKyyyy
I HATE subs.
40hz is really all you want, as pragmasi has very convincingly shown and proved.
Troel pretty much says the same thing about his dual W18's per channel MMT speakers. 
**paraphrasing **although it does not go below the 40hz, it SEEMS as though the bass hits well below 40hz**
A 6.5 midwoofer will have a  superior 80hz-160 hz voicing, cleaner, clearer vs a sub. 
Some audiophiles are obsessed with this **fantasy* 20hz-40hz region. 
This range represents only 1% of the actual music. = There is nothing there
 Why go chasing this region  employing all sorts of crappy bass woofers??
Get over it.