FUSES, Finally!?


     I have been adamant about avoiding special fuses, because of the lack of empirical studies.  Here is my question:  What would be something not too expensive that would be a good start.  I use three dual mono Audire amps (for Woofs, Mids and Tweets, and Subs, each of the six channel having four fuses.  I would not not want to spend thousands, even if I could, just to experiment.  My heat sinks do unplug, along with the outputs, and I could try just one channel or one amp.  Paul of PS mentioned what they use, and that might eventually be a possibility, but what do you guys (and gals?) think I should do, to just to convince this ageing skeptic?  Also, each channel of my amps has one single, dedicated computer chip that regulates the filling of the 4 26,000 mf caps (per channel), which might make any difference less than a design that allows a flood of electrons into the tank, presuming that might matter.  DanV
128x128danvignau
I believe in fuses, but because you have a lot to change, this is what I recommend. Better fuses have superior electrical characteristics as well as superior mechanical characteristics ( ime ). Before spending any money, do this : Remove each fuse, 1 by 1, and wrap a bit of painters tape around the center glass ( no need to cover all of the glass, but be consistent with the amount of turns of the tape, for each fuse. Clean the glass of the fuse 1st with a dry lint free cloth before applying the tape. After application, wipe the ends of the fuses with a dry lint free cloth and re-insert them. If you hear a difference, two things are happening. I : the fuse is less resonant in it’s holder and 2 : the electrical connection between the fuse and the holder is now cleaner, just by the removal and the re-insertion. This is not a joke, I promise you. Enjoy !, and be well.
Get a Synergistic Orange or Bees wax fuse asap they do make a BIG difference in sound more open better detail.
Right. Don't know about the bees but Synergistic Blue and Orange are good value for money. Either one of these roughly $150 fuses is approximately equivalent to a $500 power cord. 

Fuses are just one in a very long list of highly questionable things that turned out to work exactly as advertised. What I always do is first listen to how people say they sound. Of course no one hears everything exactly the same. So it should be expected to find people who hear nothing. Also there are people too closed minded to ever try. Also extremely cheap people. All kinds of people who for all kinds of reasons these things make what they have to say utterly worthless. 

So you filter those out. Then you look for people like me, and there are a whole lot of others, who are all saying yes these things are directional, they do work, dynamics, clarity, imaging, extension, across the board improvement. Well then how can you get one for the least cost? The best is occasionally SR has package deals. But not often. Or if you don't want to wait then buy one that will work in an amp.

Because then it will be high enough rating that after you prove it works in the amp it can be tried elsewhere. It may be you have a component they don't work that great in. With me it was my turntable motor controller. Only place it wasn't a big improvement. By trying the fuse in multiple components you'll know. Even though they have a 30 day return, still its nice to try and see if there's some place it works better than others. Then just keep buying/adding until you're in that place.

Contrast the quality of this advice to the triggered haters who have nothing productive to add. That alone should be enough to tell you what to do.
I will say this I put a Synergistic Black fuse in my preamp it seemed to make no difference. I put a Hifi tuning fuse in my, now ex, Dac big difference.  No clue if the difference was two different pieces of gear or the Hifi tuning was just a better fuse.
I use magnets that are cryo treated they are  great. Ride at your own risk. Last fuse blown was 35 years ago and 3 houses past. ARC SP11..
Tom