Help me understand "the swarm" in the broader audiophile world


I'm still fairly new out here and am curious about this Swarm thing. I've never owned a subwoofer but I find reading about them--placement, room treatments, nodes, the crawl, etc--fascinating. I'm interested in the concept of the Swarm and the DEBRA systems, and I have a very specific question. The few times I've been in high-end, audiophile stores and asked about the concept of the Swarm, I've tended to get some eye-rolling. They're selling single or paired subwoofers that individually often cost more and sometimes much more than a quartet of inexpensive, modest subs. The same thing can be said for many speaker companies that make both speakers and subs; it's not like I see Vandersteen embracing the use of four Sub 3's. 

My question is this: do in fact high-end stores embrace the concept of multiple, inexpensive subs? If not, cynicism aside, why not? Or why doesn't Vandersteen or JL or REL and so on design their own swarm? For those out here who love multiple subs, is it a niche thing? Is it a certain kind of sound that is appealing to certain ears? The true believers proselytize with such zeal that I find it intriguing and even convincing, and yet it's obviously a minority of listeners who do it, even those who have dedicated listening rooms. (I'm talking about the concept of four+ subs, mixed and matched, etc. I know plenty of folks who embrace two subs. And I may be wrong about all my assumptions here--really.)

Now, one favor, respectfully: I understand the concept and don't need to be convinced of why it's great. That's all over literally every post on this forum that mentions the word "sub." I'm really interested in why, as far as I can tell, stores and speaker companies (and maybe most audiophile review sites?) mostly don't go for it--and why, for that matter, many audiophiles don't either (putting aside the obvious reason of room limits). Other than room limitations, why would anyone buy a single JL or REL or Vandy sub when you could spend less and get ... the swarm? 


northman
Now in the new house, with a bigger listening room (14 x 17) I have 2 subs on the floor but still have 2 up high facing the ceiling.

@hleeid,

Sounds so cool!
I think you do have the swarm right? Where are your subs located in the new room?


I can tell you this ..... for years I had a surround system with Thiel 3.5s C/FL/FR and 2.2's RL and RR.  Five speakers, three flat to near 20hz and two flat to about 35hz.  The bass was incredible .... as low as any recording I had (including the St Saen's Organ Symphony) were reproduced with NO room effects whatsoever.  I vote for "Swarm".
@tyray 
Thanks!
Yes, I do have the swarm.

I have my mains placed on the long wall with a ceiling facing sub in each front wall corner.

These two subs are on the top of metal shelf units. What's nice is being able to place a monoblock lower down on each shelf.
The shelves also provide some diffusion in each corner.

One floor sub is flush against the right wall facing forward just shy of the first reflection point.
(Duke recommends facing them towards the wall with about 3" clearance.  I figured facing them forward allows them to be closer to the wall)

The other floor sub is flush against the rear wall behind me and to my left.  This sub is facing to my left.

Since the metal shelf units allow for shelf height adjustments in one inch increments, I have staggered the heights of the two ceiling facing subs.

I lowered the left front ceiling facing sub so that it is just a little closer to the ceiling that the floor. 

FWIW - I find that the ceiling facing subs need a bit more than 3" clearance.  I tried facing them away from the ceiling which helped a little.
But lowering the right another 6" and the left another 18" really made a noticeable difference.

I am now considering raising one of the two floor subs up to just under halfway to the ceiling.

Despite the different elevations, Duke's recommendation for reversing polarity on the sub farthest from the mains and removing the port plug on one of the subs in the corner works really well.

Though it is difficult to A/B test due to the time it takes to move a sub, adjust the shelf height and muscle the sub back up on the shelf,
I can hear a tighter and more even integration with the mains.

Can't really describe it other than the music sounding more "correct".
Probably because the two ceiling facing subs, due to their lower heights are closer to me and also my ear height while seated in my listening chair.  

Perhaps, like staggering drivers in some speakers for better time alignment, I am achieving similar results.

Now that I have a second Dayton, the next step will be running two subs off each at 90 degrees out of phase. 


Rix, I would forget about open baffle subwoofers. Hold on to your opposed driver balanced force design. Work on creating a very stiff, heavy enclosure design of the right size to support the two drivers. What is the stiffest enclosure shape you could use? If you have more or less advanced woodworking capabilities give me a shout and we can discuss it:)
@mijostyn -
I have full access to a cabinet making shop. I've been splitting planks on a band saw, running them through a thickness planer (before and after), joining the solid cherry wood (often with a biscuit joiner). Attempting to build four units from AcousticFields QRD 17 diffusers plans. I have only just managed to get the materials list for the diffusers, and I am going to have to let my friend program the CNC so I can get table time to cut the panels for assembly. I have some skills, always learning more.

I worked for a loudspeaker designer, my system page has photos of my current two pairs of speakers during glue up. I'm probably not going to do steel lined sub woofer enclosures though (so far the most rigid enclosure I have made is high density fiber board, 1.6 times denser than MDF, laminated to steel plate). My larger stand mounts are in the high 90lbs each. Stiffest enclosure shape might actually be a tube with baffles on the ends, not the most practical of shapes though without creating a stand of sorts.

I have a Tympnay LAT, it was controlled by a DSP, and I have to say I love the sound and without vibrations. Personal taste obviously, I was hoping a slot loaded W frame would do similar to the LAT.

The more I read, the more I want to both elevate and maybe try more subs as well.

Sorry I went off SWARM topic, but today whilst trudging through a quagmire I was considering the GIK bass traps and not affecting the SWARM sound.
I wondered if it was possible the bass traps simply didn't have the absorption (grunt) power to transform the energy from the subs, though enough to deal with the midbass??

From what I have been reading, and researching, the claims are by many that low frequency waves are very challenging and often traditional fiberglass traps simply don't have the power to deal with them as well as other frequencies.

Speculation of course.