Bi amp pros out there I could use some help! First time Bi Amping...


Just picked up a BAT vk 200 for the bass and using my Pass Aleph 5 for the mids and tweets. Ive never played around with bi amping so I apologize in advance for any lame questions My speakers are Dunlavy SC3's original 5.5 nominal load. The pass is 90 wpc at 4 Ohm and the BAT is 200 wpc at 4 ohm so Im guessing around 75 wpc off the Pass Amp and 150 plus with the Bat Amp. My pre amp is a Aleph P and Im running the Single ended through a XLR adaptor (cause the Bat is Balanced inputs only) and the pass Aleph 5 off the XLR outputs of the pre and inputs of the Pass amp. The PASS Pre Amp manual says there is a 6db differential between the RCA and XLR outputs  two and both can be driven at the same time. So the RCA is 9db and the XLR is 15 db. Gain is within 2db on each amp. So whats the best way to do this? Get a custom XLR "Y" connector and drive both off the XLR output of the pre? Or is there a way better way to get the magic? This is past my "WORLD" Map and experience so Id thought Id ask for the smart people for advice. 

Thank you in advance!

-ALLGOOD
128x128haywood310
@Haywood310 After looking at the descriptions, specs, and/or manuals for the equipment you’ve listed, if (a)you are satisfied with the sound you are presently getting with the configuration you have described, and (b)assuming the specs on the equipment are reasonably accurate, and (c)the lengths of the cables between the preamp and the amps are not unusually long (for example, longer than 15 feet or so), I’m going to offer a radical suggestion for you to consider: A good course of action may very well be to do nothing :-) Just enjoy the configuration you have described.

It appears to me that the present configuration is fine with respect to all of the major technical pitfalls that can be encountered with a passive biamp configuration:

1) Gain matching: The BAT amp has a specified gain of 25 db. By providing it with a single-ended input, while there is no change in its gain per se (i.e., the relation between its output voltage and its input voltage), overall system gain is 6 db less than if you were providing it with a balanced pair of signals. In effect that reduces its gain to 19 db. While the gain spec provided in the manual for the Pass amp appears to have a typo (it says that its gain is "20 dB balanced, 20 or 26 dB balanced") after reading the text I’m fairly certain that its balanced input provides a gain of 20 db. So you only have a 1 db gain difference between the two signal paths. Room effects most likely make a good deal more of a difference than that.

And if you were to split the XLR outputs of the preamp and drive both amps with a balanced pair of signals you would be **introducing** a significant gain imbalance, that would require insertion of a suitable attenuator between the preamp and the BAT amp.

2) Impedance compatibility: As is often the case, the signal provided by the preamp to its RCA output for each channel is the same signal that is provided to pin 2 of the XLR connector for the corresponding channel. So that signal will be loaded by the input impedances of both amps. But the numbers are such that that is not a problem in this case.

3) Upper treble rolloff that in some cases may be caused by the interaction of preamp output impedance and the combined capacitances of the cables to both amps: Again, not a problem in this case assuming the cables are not unusually long.

4) Inability to utilize most of the power capability of the higher powered amp without clipping the lower powered amp: In this case the roughly 2:1 disparity in amplifier power capability **might** result in not being able to turn the volume control high enough to utilize perhaps 2 db or so of the power capability of the BAT amp, without driving the Pass amp into clipping, but that’s probably not a major issue. If you were passively biamping say a 400 watt amp with a 50 watt amp I would not say that.

5) Degradation of the common mode noise rejection that can be provided by the amp receiving the balanced signals, due to the differing load impedances presented to the two signals in the balanced signal pair: The output and input impedance numbers in this case suggest that is unlikely to be an issue.

Others have suggested changing the equipment. That’s of course something that can be considered, now or in the future, but if you are happy with the present equipment in the present configuration it seems to me that doing nothing is also a reasonable course of action.

Regards,

-- Al
Adding powered subs is a form of bi-amping, providing many real benefits with no penalties.
I had my Martin Logan Vantage speakers modified for biamping mainly to bypass the in unit power amplification for the bass units which while Ok ,could IMO be improved. I use a 90wpc @ 8ohms Rogue 90 tube amp to drive the electrostatic panels and an Acurus 250wpc @ 8 ohms for the bass units. Technically I have no idea what the modifier did re crossover bypassing but the result is much deeper and tighter bass. Well worth the expense which was not great. I also have a powered sub which I hardly ever use because it can tend to be overpowering in a small/medium sized room.
Greetings,
Hope I can help, I worked as a soundman and discovered the magic of bi-amp and tri-amping. It brought much better, cleaner and louder to my PA system even when I had a mixed bag of amps. The multiple gain controls and adjustable crossover points and a summed subwoofer output gives many ways to match up with almost any amp, speaker or room. If you have an RTA you can tweak it to perfection and get great sound from mediocre equipment.
Before buying my Peachtree nova 300,  I used a 5ch B&K Sonata (105rms) per channel with independent gains. It sound very full range and sparkly clean with my B&W 565s and a infinity sub.
Takes a little time to tweak set up, but that's half the fun.
Go on Ebay or your local musical equipment store and get a quality DBX, EV, or a drive rack for a few bucks more.