@essrand Just commenting so I can come along for the ride. Very curious how replacing the Franks goes, please report back over the months as you try various options.
Can't remember if you commented on one of my amp threads, but damn I struggled to replace mine in driving my Coincident PREs. Tried some quality class D, class A, and OTL amps but always preferred the Franks. All those amps bettered my monoblocks in various ways, but it was never quite enough. I am currently building a First Watt F4 to use as a "booster amp." Everything I read suggests that putting it on my bass cabinets (driven directly by the outputs of the Franks) will greatly improve my low frequency control. I'll also try running speakers full range from the F4, but fed from the Franks loaded by 8 or 16 ohm resistors. 6moons claims this gives you all the liquidity and dimensionality of a non-distorting set (because it simply sees a perfect, constant 8/16 ohms), but with the full current and bass control of a great class A SS amp.
Can't remember if you commented on one of my amp threads, but damn I struggled to replace mine in driving my Coincident PREs. Tried some quality class D, class A, and OTL amps but always preferred the Franks. All those amps bettered my monoblocks in various ways, but it was never quite enough. I am currently building a First Watt F4 to use as a "booster amp." Everything I read suggests that putting it on my bass cabinets (driven directly by the outputs of the Franks) will greatly improve my low frequency control. I'll also try running speakers full range from the F4, but fed from the Franks loaded by 8 or 16 ohm resistors. 6moons claims this gives you all the liquidity and dimensionality of a non-distorting set (because it simply sees a perfect, constant 8/16 ohms), but with the full current and bass control of a great class A SS amp.