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  3. 124327-158

Has anyone tried these stunning new CPT power cord?

   Considering the many, many brands of power cords I've tried in my very well accomplished high-end system, I have never been so impacted by these Core Power Technology power cords. Within a very short period(15-20) minutes my system literally came alive. Soundstage opened wider and deeper. The background became dead silent, space between instruments and stage members were more focused and everything sounded cleaner and musical than ever. My highs had a glorious crispness and symbols shimmered. Midrange through my 2" horn became more dynamic and punchy. My 15" bass driver tightened and dug low with great control. My Rel G1 which is a fabulous sub on its own but with a CPT 150 on it is another story. Running high pass from my sub to my Audiozen Noah amplifier, music depth is just stunning. Lower end bass is authoritative and clean with solid grip and impact. 
   My experience with these power cords is truly magical. The scary part of the above is I only have one 150 on my sub and one 300 from my wall to my 6 outlet bar. I still need 3 more to complete my system. I could just imagine the level after that...In closing, I cannot emphasize enough to try one of these in your system. I CANNOT and WIIL NOT take these out as they are that good. But hold your jaw, cuz what you've been listening to will just become real after Core Power Technologies. 

Cheers....and let the tapping begin.......



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twoleftears's avatar
twoleftears
5,313 posts
 

See here for a definition of hook-up wire.
https://www.awcwire.com/faq-hook-up-wire

On Parts Connexion, if you look at their offerings in speaker cable and hook-up cable, there's a lot of overlap.

celander's avatar
celander
1,502 posts
 
@twoleftears. That is part of the confusion. I flagged in my mind the polycast product but then later ordered the oil impregnated cotton product.

It was only when Bill sent me a couple pics of his duplex outlet wiring scheme did I realize I might have mistakenly ordered the wrong wire. His pics showed a shiny black plastic wrap as the hook-up wire on the AC outlets. My wire, which was still in the bag from Parts Connexion, was a brown cloth wrap.

Bill did tell me that the incorrect wire is perfect as a great speaker cable wire. I’ve got so many speaker cables that I’m not sure I need to make another set. 😂 
t_ramey
632 posts
 
Thanks guys, I guess I didn’t think about the cotton jacket in that way as I’ve seen some who use this type of jacket inside amps but I guess it’s better safe than sorry inside the 1800.

The cotton wire probably would be ok for inside a speaker and crossover but at what gauge I’m not sure.
wig's avatar
wig
1,202 posts
 
grannyring,

Going a make a Deulund PC for my CPT and upgrade the internal duplex wiring. Is it necessary to double up the ground if I double up the neutral and live so that I’m not restricting power going into the CPT 1200?

Planning on burning in on my cable first before upgrading internal wiring.

Has any of you added a DC blocking scheme to your 1200 or 1800 and if so, do you have any pictures on how it was integrated into the unit? Mine does buzz occasionally and this circuit could make a noticeable improvement for sure. Maybe I should opt to have my Deep Core delivered verses a refund?  

Thanks,
Wig
grannyring's avatar
grannyring
6,436 posts
 
Wig,

Double the ground also.

The populated DC blocker needs to go between the IEC/breaker and the transformer input leads. I don’t own this unit so without it right in front of me I cannot give specific instructions. Generally you would do this....

The board has a live, neutral, and ground connection on the input and output of the board. Six total connection points. Three in and three out (L,N, and G). No place for mistakes here as you have high voltage and can hurt yourself and/or unit!

I really need to see to see how it is wired and these are general ideas only. Like to see, up close, the IEC and on-off breaker wiring both to each other and to the tranny close up.

The input would normally be fed the Live lead from the breaker. The breaker/on-off switch will have two black wire leads on it. Remove the black live wire lead connected to the tranny input and as this lead will soon be connected the Live output on the DC board. You now run a 12 gauge wire from that same breaker tab to the Live input terminal on the board. The IEC ground goes to the G input terminal on the board.

That black lead out from the input to the tranny now goes to the L terminal on the output of the DC blocker board. There will be a neutral wire also going into the tranny input side with the black wire you just hooked up to the L output on the DC board. It is most likely twisted with the black and perhaps white in color. That white wire now gets connected to the N on the DC output terminal. That now naked tab on the switch where the white wire was needs a 12 gauge new run to the N on the input of the DC board. Now only output ground is left on the DC board.

You really need to know what to look for and plan carefully based on how this unit is wired. Again, my points above are my general guidelines and will help you as you look into the unit live and unplugged 😊

You may want to let a professional do this.
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