Tonearm recommendation


Hello all,
Recently procured a Feickert Blackbird w/ the Jelco 12 inch tonearm.
The table is really good, and its a keeper. The Jelco is also very good, but not as good as my Fidelity Research FR66s. So the Jelco will eventually hit Ebay, and the question remains do I keep the FR66s or sell that and buy something modern in the 5-6 K range. My only point of reference is my old JMW-10 on my Aries MK1, so I don't know how the FR66s would compare to a modern arm. So I'd like to rely on the collective knowledge and experience of this group for a recommendation.

Keep the FR66s, or go modern in the 5-6K range, say a Moerch DP8 or maybe an SME.

Any and all thoughts and opinions are of course much appreciated.

Cheers,      Crazy Bill
wrm0325

Raul,

Still doesn't make sense:

**What I’m talking is what in a non-existen " perfect audio world " we have in those internal wires: ideally a pure non-contaminated signal information.

I posted that we can’t have it never ever because we have many distortions/noise/vibrations/resonances surrounded the ridding of the cartridge LP grooves modulations as: TT/arm board/Tonearm//air pollution/LP anomalies and that’s why we need to overdamp those audio chain links to be nearer to that " ideally non contaminated pure signal music information ".**

Overdamping is not going to cure the ills from the source.  In fact, overdamping will take you further away from your "ideal signal". Specifically, overdamping a tone arm will negatively effect cartridge transient response - rise/slew.
. Overdamping prevents the arm from responding in a timely manner. Functionally, in some ways it mimics high bearing friction.

I think you call me dogmatic because I won't agree with the nonsense you post.  All the BS about your ear training and you seem incapable of correlating what you hear, with what's going on with the record player.

Dear lewm/fleib and friends: Why exist the still points, vibraplane platforms, after market tubes dampers and " better " tubes circuit board bases, items to damp speakers/CD players/amps/preamps, cable elevators, clamps and TT mats, room treatment, speaker designers that take care of internal cabinet damping along the choosed build materials, speaker designers that take care seriously that the speaker crossover be perfectly damped and even designs with an external crossover, we audiophuiles that are looking how to kill vibrations anywhere the audio system?

Why every one: designers, manufacturers, reviewers, customers are looking where is that best damping item? WHY? No one needs to be a scientific to answer that we all only need COMMON SENSE, no single measurements about.

Do a simple test today: take out all the damping items in your audio system and listen it and come back here to share your experiences about.

No, damping does not cure the ills of the source nothing can do it. No, damping don’t mimic high bearing friction. What we want is that nothing interfere with the recorded signal and the best we can do is try to mantain each kind of " signal interferences " at minimum and nothing more. The tonearm is critic to help about or to " amplify " those system starting interferences.

To much bla, bla, bla, from all of us.

Take any non damped or not well damped tonearm and try to damp it wraping or whatever ( with the right material. ) its arm wand and at the same time follow what I posted here in the whole audio system and after first hand experiences not a couple hours experiences but with time because we have to accustom tho this all NEW EXPERIENCE.

If we have not that first new experience then we don’t know if it’s tru or it’s totally wrong. This is the subject here because no one is willing to try it.

That’s happen in this same forum when I brought here: the MM true alternative, the necessity of subwoofers, the DD TT alternative, the alternative to tonearms with universal removable headshell, no plynth in DD TT and many other audio " experiences ".

Almost all tell me the same " BS " or laughed of me but they were not willing to try but when finally ( months/years latter. ) they decided to do it that " laughs and BS " disappears for ever on those alternatives. So, try it before tell me again and again that my ignorance level is to high.

I don’t have any single benefit in that you try it, I never post to achieve personal benefits and I’m not against no one of you. I only try to share all my first hand experiences.

Please, as I posted before, don't try to beat me because this is not a contest but an excersice to learn or not all of us. That's all. Don't try to look for that single " word " where I could be wrong, be more positive and opened to what you have not experiences.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.



Dover,

*I have also made a metal jig to ensure that the FR64S's that I use are installed with a 231.5mm pivot to spindle distance. It is accurate to 0.1mm and this pivot to stylus distance recommended by Dertonam makes for a considerable audible improvement over the factory recommended 230mm.*

Any further explanation?  Factory alignment nulls are 59.2 and 120.4mm?   Somewhat unusual, inner null is close to Stevenson and outer is close to Baerwald. What alignment do you use?

Regards,

I guess my post had as much effect on the argumentative nature of the discussion as a loud burp.
I can stop any time I want to.