Ohm Walsh Micro Talls: who's actually heard 'em?


Hi,

I'd love to hear the impressions of people who've actually spent some time with these speakers to share their sense of their plusses and minuses. Mapman here on Audiogon is a big fan, and has shared lots on them, but I'm wondering who else might be familiar with them.
rebbi
T8

disconnecting the cable wire should indicate if that is the problem. If the hum exists only with cable wire connected. 

I I had this problem with Comcast specifically. I switched to Verizon which uses optical ire feeds afterwards and no more hum.  But the transformer device I mentioned did solve that problem with Comcast. 

No no way to know if the cable line is the problem or not with testing by disconnecting the cable feed. 
Bondmanp,

Yes, the Ohm's still continue to amaze me.  I first noticed the string oscillations on the Yes song Roundabout.  The acoustic guitar intro clearly showed the string oscillations and textures that seem to be hidden with other speakers

The same goes for piano.  I thought the micro talls did an excellent presentation of piano.  Only when the 1000's were fully broken in did I realize that they were superior to the micro talls in fleshing out the tones and textures of piano strings.

I could go on and on.  If I ever get enough money, I may get a set of the 5's and better amplification and consider it my ultimate system.  John has won a customer for life, and at age 63, these speakers will probably outlast me, and the thought of that makes me very happy!
I've heard it all over the years.  Many speakers have their unique charms but I find none as satisfying musically overall as my big F5s.  The 100s also but only in a smaller room.   No tubes needed but one or two further upstream cannot hurt.  
I'm expecting my Walsh 2.2000 upgrade tomorrow.
It will be interesting to hear the difference.

Any tips on the install?
Since I am using the Walsh 1 cabinets, no crossover removal is needed.

t8kc, congrats on the upgrade, the install should be fairly simple. There can always be some minor setbacks, but generally John has provided everything you might need.

Not having any crossover boards to pound out makes things so much easier too, although I am not sure if you will receive a new terminal board that will replace the current one or not. Either way, it is no big deal to pop the old one out. John likes to use hot melt glue to put the new terminal board in, I tend to like to use black silicone, it is a bit easier to deal with and a nice bead of it around the inner edge where the board goes will work fine. It just takes a bit longer to cure/setup, but doesn't become brittle over time like the hot melt can.

The new terminal board will have what looks to be like the older original heavy gauge clear skinned "monster cable" connected to it, and another connector at the other end which will then plug into your new can.

The new can will be already mounted on a new "baffle" board which will then be mounted right over the existing hole where your old driver went. This board is typically screwed in with the provided 4 wood screws. It really is just a matter of getting the new board/can assembly situated squarely on the cabinet top before screwing things down.

You might also get new grilles, as the driver can is a bit bigger around and also taller. At least my OW2 to 2.2000 was this way.

At any rate, take things slowly and pre-fit things first just to make sure you know how things will go together. The only real thing to be aware of is the orientation of the driver on the cabinet, and the instructions should show what way the driver should sit so that the tweeters are in the right position. Really seeing as there isn't the typical logos on the OW1 cabinet like the other bigger brothers, not much you can really get wrong here. Obviously if something doesn't look right, fit right etc., John will help you out.

Have fun and enjoy the process! And especially enjoy the music your Ohms will give you!