Circuit Breaker for Dedicated Lines


Is there a type of 20amp breaker that is better than another? I have run 12 gauge wire and plan on using FIM outlets. Would someone recommend a particular breaker?
bundy
Some have reported very good sonic results with ceramic fuses. But, those are not usually allowed by code anymore. Why? Because the 15, 20 and 30 amp fuses are all typically the same size and there have been too many instances where a 15 amp fuse blew and the homeowner decided to use a 20-30 amp fuse instead since it was convenient. Oops!

The National Electrical Code is online (I don't know the location but you can find it via a search on Yahoo). There are also local codes to consider. It's probably easier to just ask your electrician what can be done. Everyone here has reported marked improvements with dedicated lines regardless of fuse types, so that's the main thing. Good luck.
The worst sounding breaker is a GFI type so avoid that completely. But a ceramic base edison fuse is the best sounding above any ckt. breaker by far. If you can outboard a small sub-panel fusebox paralleled across your incoming main, then by all means try it. May not be allowed by all codes, but you can easily do this yourself with only rudimentary electrical skills; are you interested in good sound or rules?
Look on the inside face of the cover/door of your service panel. There should me a Brand name and "UL Listing". If the Service Panel accepts other brands of circuit breakers there will be a list of brands located somewhere on the label/listing.

Whenever you have additions or repairs to any “Life Safety” system in your home, hire a licensed professional. Call the area “Contractors Board” and confirm that the person doing the work is qualified and match the trade license number to the person doing the work.
Town Building official must approve all work. A $20 fee or so.

Note that if you do not get approval from the town building inspector and your house burns down to faulty / illegal work, your insurance will not reimburse you for damages.

If I had to make a choice, I'd take worse sound over a burned down house.
You can use any breaker that will fit in your slot in your panel for 120VAC (single breaker.) Most panels will require the same make, however, sometimes another make will fit. Breakers are pretty much breakers. Since the wire is protected by the breaker, I would run larger wire than needed(say #10 stranded or even #8 stranded.) Then install a 30 (or 40 if you can find one on #8) amp single pole breaker in the service panel. Stranded wire carries more current than solid core Romex wire. The NEC has been mandating #12 Romex solid wire in the new International Code for receptacles but this is "Special purpose." Use a Hubbell hospital grade receptacle with or without a isolated ground (suppose to help cut noise)
In my dedicated sound room, I killed two birds with one stone. I installed a double 40 amp breaker in the panel and ran one side with a ground and neutral to one outlet and the other side to a second outlet on the other side of the room. You can do this if you have an empty double slot available in the panel or pull your original single breaker out and make a slot. I ran Belden #8 stranded wire with a matching neutral and ground. Don't connect the two together. It would be 230VAC. Connected both to hubbell receptacles and it was the BIGGEST improvment I ever made.
BTW---unless you cut off the complete panel by switching the main disconnect off---the panel stays HOT! If in doubt, call a licensed electrician. Even though you have a 40 amp circuit(2), you are not pulling 40 amps. It just creates a less resistive circuit and will never be a limiting factor.