Cable that is better for 4 ohm speakers? Well that's a new one!
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Out of curiosity have you tried not bi-wiring with the Canare and just using it single wired running it at its 11 gauge when both wires are combined? At a 12ft run the extra 3ga might help. If it does you can just buy another 12 run and use it for bi-wiring. Cheap solution.
I have run Canare single wired successfully. FWIW my issues with cable has usually been a problem with the highs and lows, not so much the mid-range, when the length of the runs is appropriate.
I agree with Newbee. Try them single wired with jumpers on your speakers.
I run the same Canare 4S11 on my very hard to drive Martin Logan CLSIIA's, (these speakers will drop below 1 ohm) and they are amazing. They replaced some extremely expensive cables and I couldn't be happier. I run a 14 foot pair.
So let me get this straight...My Canare cables are already terminated with spades...run them all to only one set of speaker terminals and jump the remainder???...Since these speakers have tri-wire capability, would it make a difference on which terminal to choose, or its just a cr*p shoot and process of elimination. The other possibility I have pondered and thats to bi-amp these speakers as I do have another external amp and the CSi does have a seperate pre-amp out too.
Yes. Use the two positives spades together and and the two negative spades together. You can use any of the sets of binding posts you wish. Personally I always use the bass posts but I must admit, I'm not a religious person when it comes to the issue of whether using bi-wiring is a real sonic improvement or just a commercial issue.
Some high quality speaker manufacturers resisted using bi wiring for a long time, some still do. I've played with it a lot and must admit to even using different types of cable on the highs and lows just to see if I could get a great blend on the cheap. I ended up single wiring my speakers a number of years ago, checking out the benefits with each new speaker arriving of bi-wiring, and have kept it simple. FWIW.
Resist the urge to try bi-amping your speakers. You really need a lot of experience, a good outboard cross over, and synergistic amps just to start out a very frustrating trip.
The only bi-amping I would ever recommend is using idential amps and for me that is right up there with bi wiring for probable benefits, and a lot more expense.
BTW, if you ultimately decide to go with single wire using the Canare, I'd chop off the spades and replace them with some locking bananas or large(r) spades. FWIW a tweaky suggestion while I'm at it. I go to my handy electronics store and buy some 1/4" pure copper lugs used for batteries. They can handle very heavy gauge cable (but you need a vice to crimp them) and then you remove the nuts on the binding posts and slip the lugs on over the posts. Makes for a much better and safer connection. These will not come loose. And, FWIW, I think the pure copper might actually sound a bit better, but its probably just the better connection. :-)
You should be able to connect the cables to two sets of binding post (as if you were bi-wiring) and simply add the jumpers between the posts. This should for all intents and purposes be same as stacking the spades on one post and then adding the jumpers.
As for the orignal OP question, you should focus on finding the cables with lowest impedance especially for the long runs.
Is there any way you could shorten the cable runs?
"I am using a Coda CSi Integrated amp that has a pushed bias of 45w class A to about 600 watts 4ohm rating."Good question!
It probably means that said amplifier circuit is designed ("biased") so that the first 45W output are in class A; furthermore, the total rated output of the amp is 600W for 4ohms and probably 300W into 8 ohms.
I will try a few of these methods and look to jump the other posts and just double up on the canare. I will let you know my thoughts...I did catch a quick read from Nordost last night about jumping bi or tri wire posts and with the tri wire the mention was to jump the treble and bass and plug into the midrange post
Gregm well said above about the 45w bias...the previous owner of this CSi integrated had it built and tweaked to his liking and stated that he never really heard the switchover from class A to A/B...and neither do I...
Ok...I have gone ahead and jumped all the posts...I have found no change in sonics or ambience...Sounds the same on my reference music. This is really weird that this is dramatic as it is...I am beginning to believe this is the sound of the CSi (extremely nuetral) and there is very little improvement in what I do...I am still willing to give a shot to another set of speaker cables that might open up the soundstage. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated in the $$$ range above...How about jumpers??? I am using some non-terminated cardas soldered jumpers at the moment.
FWIW, please see my system arrangement for maybe a better understanding of what it consists of to save time of typing etc...The only change is the exchange of the Modwright to the CSi...I still have the Modwright, just not hooked up at the moment but used to reference the sonics and ambience if need be...
I think I understand now. You are comparing the sonics of the two amps using the same cable (Canare) and find the sound of the CSi to be different than the Modwright in a less than flattering way. You would like to change the cable to improve the sound. Correct?
If so you might try some Nordost cable in your budget. But be warned, some might feel that it opens up the sound, others might feel that it has the effect of changing the tonal balance, or that it might be bright. FWIW I suspect that you cannot really change the tone of your CSi by changing the cable enough to make it worthwhile, if at all. Sorry.
I'm not familar with the Coda product although I have heard that they are made by ex Threshold employees who worked for Nelson Pass and this product is much like the older Pass product designs. If that is the case perhaps what you really need is a different amp, for example a Bryston or something similar. FWIW.
Newbee....now the messge has come across...Yes...just trying to open it up a bit...I know the Canare 4S11 is a good start on some cables for speakers...But a would a few more $$$ in cables assist or bring me closer...Would like to possbily get out of tubes and back to simple setup without losing that lustrious sound and tone and POWER...My Modwright has the tube rectified power supply upgrade that really did some jusitce...But it also really made all the instruments shine just a bit better too...Don't get me wrong this Coda is no slouch, as its very very tight and DEAD SILENT...very nice unit...just tryin to tweak it just enough to improve the final outcome...
I see, you want a SS amp to sound like a tube amp in all of its best attribhutes with none of the downsides associated with running tubes. Good luck! If you succeed be sure to get a copy right and market it. All of us tube owners (or most anyway) will beat a path to your door and make you rich. :-) FWIW the Bryston won't sound like tubes either.
I never ran my Tylers with SS stuff but if I had to I would combine a Tubed pre-amp with a SS amp. I used my SP10II and a Threshold SA amp to run Thiels quite successfully until I got lured away by the call of 'tubed amps'.
I hope things work out for you.
One quick correction regarding my previous post, I meant to say low inductance and not impedance.
Shakedown, why do you need 12ft cables? When I look at your system pics your speakers appear to be close together. Have you thought of locating your power amp between the speakers. You then can have 4ft cables.
This said, I am not sure that this will bring you closer to your goal. It will however bring you sonic benefits.