Less fatiquing

My Bryston 3B and Bryston preamp .5 are beautiful pieces but also very bright. I am just getting into this hobby and dont have alot of money but thought someone could make a suggestion to make my system warmer and less shrill at higher volumes. I have tara lab prism interconnects and PSB Image 5T speakers. Oh and I am using a Rotel RX965 Limited cd player or the Denon 2500 DVD as a player. Thanks in advance...bt
I would SERIOUSLY look at your other components before giving up on the Brystons. I don't have much experience with PSBs, but I've heard a few people accuse various models of being a little hot on top. Your digital components might also be likely culprits. Others with more experience with the particular gear in question will have better advice, but I used to own a bunch of Bryston gear, and when properly mated with appropriate partnering gear, I never found it bright at all. Methinks your problem is elsewhere.
Years ago, I went through the smae thing with Krell's amps. If you are not planning to cross the line into the tube camp, Jeff Rowland & H2O are amps that you may wish to consider auditioning, in aadressing your complaint with the Bryston.

Realize though that this is only one link in your chain and system synergy is what is all about. Try to work with a dealer that you are comfortable with and if possible, demo the amps in your room with your other gear.
You may want to sell the Bryston gear and look for a Rowland or Classe integrated amp, or even a tube integrated.

If you want to keep the Bryston, try some Cardas Cross or Golden Cross cabling.
Just last night, my audio buddy and I were comparing a Bryston 4BST and a Classe CA200 in his system which is comprised of Revel F30 speakers and a Wadia 850 in direct drive. After going back and forth, we felt the Classe was more refined, had better macrodynamics, more involving midrange, less bright, and a richer tone that appealed to us both. The Bryston definately had more treble energy and had great definition but ultimately was just too thin and two-dimensional. The Classe are very fine amplifiers and I second that choice. You could also try McIntosh which is my personal favorite. Both brands have many examples that cover all budgets. Good luck! Arthur
Brystons did USED TO BE a little hard, but I would not judge their sound based on a 3B or a .5B. Also, everything else in your system is a little bit on the "edgy" side, so maybe you should start with some lower priced Cardas or even good old MIT 330 cables. Those are the cables those Brystons were voiced with back in the day. The Rotel and denon are not known for their analog-like sound. However they both (I believe) have digital outputs, so if you can't afford expensive digital source equipment, then you might want to consider even a modestly priced but high quality separate stand-alone DAC like a used Wadia for instance wyich you can sometimes pick up for under a grand.

Before you decide Brystons sound shrill, you might want look elsewhere in your system, to make global remedies, because I don't think changing the amps will solve the problem. And just for fun, you might want to go hear some of Brystons current models. They're a lot cheaper than Rowland!
I had a system that was too aggressive and harsh in the midrange. Putting in Cardas neutral reference cables did the trick for me. It really took the aggressiveness out of the mids. I no longer have that system, and am currently selling the cables here on the 'gon. It's not exactly a "cheap" fix - still costs a bit over $500.

If you have audio friends, I would suggest that you try substituting in pieces of their equipment to check out various links on the chain.
I would like to throw the room into the mix too. Speaker placement can sometimes correct deficiencies but a room that is hard will take some work to warm up. Some experimentation with the room can usually yield good results.

I use cables like tone controls, as do many other folks & don't forget PC's & receptacles when looking into cables.
I agree with Hooper. The amps may be playing a role in this, but it is more likely your source or speakers. Consider upgrading to a Transport/DAC or computer/DAC, which is superior. Mods to these can further minimize sibilance. Some sibilance will be caused by jitter in the digital signal.

Steve N.
Empirical Audio
its not the bryston stuff...its nuetral as neutral
Your problem is NOT your speakers. Have you ever met an audiophile who didn't recommend that you trade up? (OK, I do it all the time myself). Seriously, I have a second system with the very similar 7PT PSBs and an NAD receiver. I have a Denon player as a source, but use the NAD's DACs. With MIT cabling, I have, if anything, the opposite problem. Sometimes I feel as if everything is covered in molasses. No, I don't necessarily like things on the bright side. I would try your speakers with some NAD electronics before I replaced the speakers. No, it doesn't have the pedigree of something like Classe, but it might be a synergistic combination.
Try some Timken bearings as coupling footers.

Model # 09067 bearing resting in LM11910 mismatched race

top each footer with a Small DH Cone

This will give you a very good idea about their performance characteristics, you can then tweak/reconfigure them further to fine tune your results.
I was told the thicker the interconnects the more bass and the less high frequency information will pass through as I have personally found this to be true, could be a solution. I don't like shrill but if it is refined, maybe just a bit extended otherwise look into a warmer amp like the Classe as suggested above.

My own experience has been the opposite in regards to cable size vs. sonic performance but I still have to ask if you're referring to the size of the wire itself or the overall cable diameter.
Guys, I have decided to play around with speaker placement and have found a significant difference in spacing them away from each other and placing them near the base of the walls in my 11x12' LR. I live in a one bedroom. In spacing them I have found more bass response and therefore a warmer sound. I have also took your suggestion and am ordering the MIT330 cable as part of a solution. I really like the Bryston and did not want to give it up. It is built like a tank and has two years warrenty left. I thought about replacing it with the MF A3.2 or the CJ2250. But thought I would continue to tweak what I think is a fine amp.
After some auditioning Rotel, Bryston, Classe, MF, Parasound, at home, I purchased the Classe CAM-200 monoblocks. They were the best match for my Tannoy D700's. I had a few music bug friends over to help with the auditions. Not only was the Classe just as detailed as the MF, Bryston(we heard just as much detail in the music), but it relayed the music with more finese(sp?)and was less fatiguing after long listens. It drew us into the music more, and to tell you the truth, made casual listening a little more difficult.
I agree with Odavid9. Why is it that we always have to spend MORE money if there is something about the sound we don't like?
try some power cords now that you got speaker placement right ,so many on here,diy is fun also.mit also has some low cost power cords look for them should settle you in,move up the chain in tara lab interconnects you wont replace nothing for 2 years,unless you become a audio junkie,and ive found ,if you are posting on the gon..your well on your way of being one,,,welcome to the family
Obviously from above there are fans of Byrston and all systems are about synergy. Granted that...from my admittedely limited experience I did find them a tad too bright and shrill even. I demo-ed them in my own system and found them as such not to my own personal preference, as well as at dealer set up when they were driving Martin Logan Prodigy speakers wih an Esoteric front end. Tubes can be considered, but if you are like me and a bit daund going that route some SS alternatives which have a "smoother" sound character and also perhaps in a similiar price range include the Rowlands, Linn, Plinus and Pass Labs...at least from what I heard so far.
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