Leaky capacitors need replacement?

Definitely.

I cannot quite see from the picture if they are polarized or not. But it looks like they are polarized by the little black band on the side indicating the negative terminal, but I cannot be sure. Please check.

But not to worry either way, if they are bi polar (non polar), you can always put two 68uF (standard capacitance value) back to back in series and it would do perfectly, which would give you 34uF and with the +/- 20% tolerances it would not matter.

Do NOT buy another direct bipolar capacitor because their lifetime is VERY limited.

Here are your options (I increased your voltage to 450V for even longer life).

If your capacitor is polar:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/aluminum-electrolytic-capacitors/58?s=N4IgjCBcoOwEwFYqgMZ...
Note that these are VERY long life capacitors (20,000 hrs at 105C)

If it is bipolar, you need two of these back to back (- to - or + to +).  The good thing with back to back capacitors is that their voltage will double to 900 volts in this case.  They will obviously occupy more space however:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/aluminum-electrolytic-capacitors/58?s=N4IgjCBcoOwEwFYqgMZ...
These are also very long life too (20,000/12,000 hrs at 105C).

They will last a looooong time.

ALWAYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Replace the capacitors. Be careful though there may be other components affected by the leaky caps.  An O Scope will help to see if the signal looks clean.

Those are polarized capacitors and should be replaced with the same type and value. Film won't fit! Non-polars won't fit either.

For those who are curious, please take a look at the photo from 6moons.com:
https://6moons.com/audioreviews/musicreference/hero_open.jpg

Those two 33uf 350v capacitors are smoothing/filtering purpose, you can clearly see it connected to a 1kohm resistor go to the output tube screen grid.

@ dletch2
The + side of the capacitor connected to the 1kohm resistor go to the screen grid(pin 9) of the output tube via a red/orange color wire, can you see it?

I replaced all the tubes and my amp is still sputtering so next I’m off to a tech to replace those caps and hope that’s the issue.  

Talk about going around the world and the thread becoming a cluster**** of info just thrown out there.
This could have been fixed over a week ago, if you just replace those leaky cheap caps to start with.

Cheers George

I'm in the same boat with my RM10 MkII....same caps have gone south and leaked....anybody know of a good, available replacement that fits easily?  TIA!

Replaced my RM10 caps with the Nichicons George recommended in 1st paragraph, thanks George!.  All is well except the bias won't zero down and there seems to be a low hum over speakers at idle which I don't think was there before.  When the caps went bad the bias couldn't be zero'd down either and the hum was louder.  Otherwise it's holding bias steady at 28mV and sounds fine.  Could 12AX7 input tubes be the culprit?  Uncoupled the CDP player (which I run direct into the amp) from RCA inputs and same low level hum at idle.  Sure wish Roger RIP was around....

All is well except the bias won't zero down and there seems to be a low hum over speakers at idle which I don't think was there before.

Those caps may not be the only ones that were bad. But your tubes can cause both hum and bias problems- have they been tested?

There's nothing weird or crazy about these amps- they can be easily repaired by anyone competent with tube circuits.