Kimber Select 3033 versus 3035 and 3038


I just tried a pair of Kimber Select 3033 speakers cables in my system. All i can say is WOW. I had actually borrowed a pair from a friend of mine. My question is does the 1035 provide a significant upgrade over the 1033?? If so, what characteristics seem to improve. How about the 1038?? Both are significantly more expensive . . .
dewinkle

Showing 3 responses by raquel

KS 3038 is a directional cable, yes. There are little arrows indicating direction on the metal "beer cans" from which the connectors protrude, where the "cans" have been painted.
I had 3033 in my second system for three years and have now run 3038 in my main system for about the same period of time.

In direct A/B comparisons in my two systems (both of my systems are of such quality to fully reveal the strengths and weaknesses of cabling), the difference between the 3033 and 3038 was actually quite subtle (I tried them with three different amps). I suppose my main reaction was how incredibly good the 3033 is for the money. The 3038 is a bit more transparent and has slightly better image specificity, but the differences are subtle. I have used both Kimber Select 1011 and 1030 run system-wide in both of my systems as well, and find the differences between them to be much greater than between the 3033 / 3038 speaker cables (in my systems, the 1030 was quite a bit more refined than 1011).

On a related note, the Black Pearl silver conductor in all Kimber Select interconnects and speaker cables takes a full 1,000 hours to break in -- do not judge any Kimber Select silver product (3035, 3038, 1021, 1030, 2021, 2030) unless you know for a fact that it has these hours on it. As for any harsh sound from Kimber Select silver IC's or cables, one of two things is likely happening: (i) the cable or IC is not fully broken in, or, (ii) they are showing the grain and other flaws of mediocre upstream components (good silver passes alot more information from the midrange on up than copper and will expose the shortcomings of upstream equipment).

I could happily live with 3033 in my top system, but the 3038 is better. That said, I am talking about my experience with these products in my systems only -- nothing is more system-dependent than interconnects and speaker cables, and the only safe way is to try things for yourself.
I would suggest that a bit of skepticism is in order whenever someone whom you do not know claims that they have fully broken in a cable, component or speaker that requires many hundreds of hours of break-in time.

For example, logging 750 hours on something requires it to be run 24/7 for a full month. 1,000 hours is a long time and a concerted effort has to be made to ensure that those hours are actually logged. It was worth it to fully break in my Kimber Select 1030 and 3038, as they did not fully open up and smooth out until they got a real 1,000 hours on them, but it was a true pain in the ass and a six-week project. Breaking in speakers and speaker cables is a particular inconvenience, as most of us don't have a barn in which to put them where they can be run in 24/7. Even wiring one speaker out of phase so they don't make noise during break in is a pain, as the speakers have to be faced nose to nose for break-in, but then pulled apart, the leads flipped on one pair of speaker cables, and the speakers repositioned if, during the break-in period, the owner feels like listening to music. Von Schweikerts and Verities, to name just a few, take 500+ hours to break in. Given the inconvenience of break-in, speakers should be, in my opinion, broken in by the manufacturer, and I am perfectly fine with them working the added cost into the price, as the current failure of the industry to do this is intolerable (at least to me) ... "[H]ere are your new speakers. If you run them 24/7 for three weeks, they will sound like they are supposed to sound. Thanks for your $30k and good luck".

My apologies for the diversion from your question.