20 Amp Dedicated line: 10 gauge vs 12 gauge wire

Analysis Plus makes a 10-gauge extremely high-quality in-wall certified conduit, "Power Oval 10" that lists for $30/foot. I have great conduit already in-wall (10-gauge multi-9's, solid core, hand-pulled) as referenced above however I am getting ready to experiment with a length of this product....A friend is a Tara and Analysis Plus dealer; he made a 10 foot cord out of the Power Oval 10 recently with Wattgate plugs and it did great things for various components even when using this 10 foot section from an existing run of the mill wall outlet. I am wondering just how good it would be with Oyaide or high-grade Furutech/Wattgate plugs to extend my current circuit across the room and allow me to relocate my system leaving speakers and amp alone in the front. If you want more details, write me offline.

By all means, I'd be interested in alternatives to Romex.

There is no issue running 10-gauge wire for a 20-amp circuit. I have a circuit run with hand-pulled solid-core 10-gauge and high-grade conduit that is 100' from breakout box to listening room with great results. I use Oyaide R1 cryo'ed outlets and have found like others on the thread that removing my power conditioner after the fact (Furman IT-Ref20i) actually resulted in even better sound. The comments on ground potential over multiple dedicated circuits as written above are also well-founded. One suggestion I would make is to move away from Romex; there are better sounding alternatives out there in terms of both stranded and solid core options that will cost you more but be more than worth it in the long run (pun intended)!

Even with the same length for all runs, the voltage drops will be different for each circuit. This is because power amp draws more current and it would see a slightly lower voltage.

A good practice in installing the dedicated circuits is to keep all the runs of the same length to deal with the potential Almarg mentions.
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Keep in mind, though, that if the interconnects between components that are connected to separate dedicated lines are single-ended (unbalanced), there is the risk that voltage differentials between the grounds of those separate dedicated lines will couple noise or hum into the system via the shields of those interconnects:

http://www.jensen-transformers.com/an/an004.pdf

Regards,
-- Al

Looks to me like you are a candidate for at least three dedicated circuits coming into your room. After installing the dedicated circuit(s), I encourage you to do some critical listening without the power conditioner. You may be surprised to find an improvement from taking it out of the chain, particularly with the amps.

I agree with Rushton, add additional dedicated lines and try removing that power conditioner. If your results are like mine, you'll wind up selling the conditioner for enough to pay the electrician.

My system has fourteen dedicated lines if you count the 240 volt Euro runs. Considering other equipment costs this is the cheapest and safest tweak you can do.

I say that having come from original wiring and upgrading to 2 dedicated lines. Later I added 2 more, making 4 dedicated. The last time I upgraded to 14 dedicated lines. Each time there was an improvement.

Mr_Lewis, most of us running dedicated circuits have installed two or more. For example, in my minimalist two-channel system, I run three dedicated circuits: a separate 20 amp circuit for each of my Atma-Sphere MA-2 220w monoblocks, and a third circuit for the preamp and turntable. A fourth circuit is available for the occasional digital device.

The C-J Premier 12 amps would be happy to have their own circuit, as would the LP275M amps. Putting them all on the same circuit is, imo, a mistake.

It may also be beneficial to have the TV and digital equipment on a circuit separate from your preamps and from your power amps. Doing so may help reduce noise over the A/C lines feeding into other equipment.

Looks to me like you are a candidate for at least three dedicated circuits coming into your room. After installing the dedicated circuit(s), I encourage you to do some critical listening without the power conditioner. You may be surprised to find an improvement from taking it out of the chain, particularly with the amps.
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Based on the responses, I just had my electrician run the 10 gauge Romex (sp?) wire; my distance was about 60 feet.

I have one thing plugged into the outlet now and that is an Audience Adept Response aR12. Into that, I have the following plugged in:

1). 2 Conrad Johnson LP275M's
2). 1 Conrad Johnson LP140M
3). 2 Conrad Johnson Premier 12's
4). Pre-amp
5). Pre-Pro
6). Plasma T.V.
7). CD player
8). DVD player
9). Cable Box

Would you feel confident that the single dedicated line is adequate for what is drawing from it? I would prefer NOT to run a second line as I only have one Audience Adept Response conditioner and do not want to spend the money on a second one.
Thoughts?

Thank you.

B.

Well it's been a few years, but I know my 20A lines are 10 guage wire. I think it's code here in Michigan?

Dave

Like Eldartford says, heat will not be a factor unless you have some very unusual system, giant Krell amps always on along with an older massive projector system, and a small stove, etc.
However, imo the 10 guage is the superior choice for the reason stated by Rushton.
Some will say the difference is not significant; but, as Keith Johnson of Spectral Audio has stated- its the sum of many small improvements that can result in a significant advantage. The 10 guage of the same quality wire will provide reduced impedance to the current flow, and that is desirable for amplifiers in particular. I would suggest the 'quality' of wire is just as, or more, important as the difference in guage. There is much higher quality wire used in robotics for example, with very significantly better shielding/grounding. I would examine that option as opposed to simply larger guage. Good luck & happy listening. Pete

Neither wire will heat up noticably, because you will only draw a couple of amps no matter what the wire, outlets, and breaker are rated for.

No problem using 10 gauge instead of 12, however if all your outlets are rated at no more than 20amps, you should use a 20amp breaker.

From all that I've read, it's about voltage drop over the distance of the circuit run. At shorter distances from your breaker box (perhaps under 30') go with 12 gauge, at longer distances (50' or more) definitely use 10 gauge. I've seen some charts showing the voltage drop over distance, and it can be significant, but I can't find them now.
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