Using a 220v amplification equipment in the US

Putting in 220v dedicated circuits in your house (in the US) seems like it would be expensive because of the wire and plugs you'd have to use (or is that only necessary for dryers and electric ranges?)

Now, I don't know how they do 220V in Europe or Asia, but in this country it would mean that you are automatically feeding your components balanced power, which should really improve dynamics and reduce noise to nothing.

Thank you all for you responses- I think I would rather not delve into a techician rewiring the units internally- my thought is just to use an external converter/transformer that will covert the 110v from the socket to 220v...I also do not want to have a dedicated 220v line to my study as this would be very expensive....theoretically there should not be any deterioration though there is some 10hz difference in the AC cycle...this though should not affect an amp (vs a cd player or turntable)....
As of now I can't seem to find a reason why the units' performance would be affected.....
The specific units I am looking at are the shengya a202 intergrated and the Fomix integrated...have also been researching the Jungson JA88d (which is avail at 110v but at what seems to be an overly aggressive distributor mark-up)....

To me, this sounds like the proverbial Rube Goldberg solution to a problem that doesn't even yet exist (your owning 220V equipment). There's really nothing available in 110V, new or used, as good as these Chinese components?

I've used convertors on source equiptment and converted, internally to 110V. Shouldn't have bothered, convertor sounded better by small degree but had a bit of mechanical hum.

Trying to find a convertor with the current for amplifiers might be a challenge. Transformers are usually step-down, not step-up. Let's say, for example, that the amp draws 500W. At 220V, thats about 2.25 amps. Double that for the 110V side and double again for "reality factor" and your dealing with 9 amps or 1 KVA. Unfortunately, transformers/convertors are rated for the output side, so you'll probably have to double the rating. Big, expensive convertor.

On the other hand, you can splice into the stove or dryer power and add a split-phase subpanel with dual 15 amp breakers. I've done that and as long as I don't cook an entire Christmas dinner with the stereo blasting, no breakers need to be reset. Difference is that I still use 110V outlets. There are double horizontal outlets and plugs to prevent somebody from plugging a vacuum into the 220V (that would be bad). You have to use wire rated for the source breaker, so you'll need 3 conductor 6 or 8 guage with ground up to the subpanel. Splicing takes ground clips and rubber tape inside a proper enclosure. They don't make wire nuts that big. What you'll have is 2 hots at 110V each (out of phase and complimentary), one unused neutral and a ground as normal. The two hots would be wired as hot/neutral. Might freak an inspector, but it works. Warning: There is some equipment that is not compatible with balanced power.

thanks again....
and steveaudio...i see your point however having heard what some of these chinese amps can do and seen what the equivalent cost from one of the many very high quality intergrateds we have available at 110v, no, there is very little available at the same performance/price ratio.....the difference is in the 3 to 4 times order of magnitude range...a very good Class A output chinese amp comes in well under $1000...if we assume that a fairly powerful converter/transformer is all you need then frankly it makes sense...a lot of sense...
As Ngjockey correctly points out you need to make sure you get something powerful enough for the current draw....a 2000watt convertor will cost say $300...still well ahead of the game