Using a 220v amplification equipment in the US


I am building a strictly 2ch system for my study- I have become very interested in the current chinese offerings as several friends in Europe have recently gone in that direction and are extremely happy with the result- particularly the excellent price/performance ratio.

Some of the equipment that has been recommended to me is not available in 110v and I am not entirely sure if performance will be compromised by using 220v units with a good adapter/converter (at least 500w)...

I was looking at a couple of interesting integrated amplifiers offered by NY Sound which in fact offer the model and/or brand I was looking at with 220v power supplies....I am matching this with a Musical Fidelity X-Ray v3 and tube buffer (110v) in terms of front end and eventually with either Harbeth or Gallo Ref3 speakers...

Would be very interested in your thoughts....
pgastone

Showing 1 response by ngjockey

I've used convertors on source equiptment and converted, internally to 110V. Shouldn't have bothered, convertor sounded better by small degree but had a bit of mechanical hum.

Trying to find a convertor with the current for amplifiers might be a challenge. Transformers are usually step-down, not step-up. Let's say, for example, that the amp draws 500W. At 220V, thats about 2.25 amps. Double that for the 110V side and double again for "reality factor" and your dealing with 9 amps or 1 KVA. Unfortunately, transformers/convertors are rated for the output side, so you'll probably have to double the rating. Big, expensive convertor.

On the other hand, you can splice into the stove or dryer power and add a split-phase subpanel with dual 15 amp breakers. I've done that and as long as I don't cook an entire Christmas dinner with the stereo blasting, no breakers need to be reset. Difference is that I still use 110V outlets. There are double horizontal outlets and plugs to prevent somebody from plugging a vacuum into the 220V (that would be bad). You have to use wire rated for the source breaker, so you'll need 3 conductor 6 or 8 guage with ground up to the subpanel. Splicing takes ground clips and rubber tape inside a proper enclosure. They don't make wire nuts that big. What you'll have is 2 hots at 110V each (out of phase and complimentary), one unused neutral and a ground as normal. The two hots would be wired as hot/neutral. Might freak an inspector, but it works. Warning: There is some equipment that is not compatible with balanced power.