Dweller,
I am in the process of "skinning" some HT Pro-11+ cables right now. I will have a really short double run for bi-wiring from a pair of monoblocks. The outer two layers are simply PVC with the outer layer for protection and to make them look huge, and the inner layer for damping. They then have a non-woven fabric and cotton in with the twisted pair. I will keep the fabric in-place, wrap them with a special teflon tape I use to hold shape and then I plan to wrap them with a foamed material for further damping and then techflex. The end result will not be as thick, and will be much more flexible without all the PVC material. I don't want to totally unwrap the fabric and cotton materials since I think it is important to maintain the exact spacing and twist that only the machine winding can provide. I am going to also upgrade the spades to Furutech OCC with gold and crimp them with a hydraulic crimper.
I am anxious to try the "skinned" wires against my Pro 9+ (which I also like) because the Pro 11+ uses all 24awg wire while the Pro 9 versions use a range of wires including 20, 22 and 24 awg. I think having all 24awg may be a benefit, compared to having some of the larger sizes and the variety of sizes, but maybe not since the new Pro-11 Ref now uses the variety of sizes. My previous comparisons show both to be very well textured and smooth with good body and perhaps a bit more "boom" to the bass with the Pro-9, which I believe may be related to the various sized wires and the larger 20awg wires, while the Pro-11+ may be a touch clearer and more natural sounding....or maybe that is my imagination.
Regarding the skinning, get a good utility knife with a new blade for the outer PVC which is tough. Maintain a constant depth of cut that doesn't penetrate the inner PVC too deep. Run one slit down opposite sides, pull it free of the inner casing and then pull each side simultaneously. It comes off hard but certainly can be done once you get it started. Change the blade often. For the inner (more flexible) PVC, use a sharp blade and again cut two slits on opposite sides while staying away from the wires. Pull the two sides simultaneously and you will be left with the wrapped wires. Another good thing about this wire, is that the dielectric is a foamed teflon and can be stripped with your fingernails.
Good luck with your project.
I am in the process of "skinning" some HT Pro-11+ cables right now. I will have a really short double run for bi-wiring from a pair of monoblocks. The outer two layers are simply PVC with the outer layer for protection and to make them look huge, and the inner layer for damping. They then have a non-woven fabric and cotton in with the twisted pair. I will keep the fabric in-place, wrap them with a special teflon tape I use to hold shape and then I plan to wrap them with a foamed material for further damping and then techflex. The end result will not be as thick, and will be much more flexible without all the PVC material. I don't want to totally unwrap the fabric and cotton materials since I think it is important to maintain the exact spacing and twist that only the machine winding can provide. I am going to also upgrade the spades to Furutech OCC with gold and crimp them with a hydraulic crimper.
I am anxious to try the "skinned" wires against my Pro 9+ (which I also like) because the Pro 11+ uses all 24awg wire while the Pro 9 versions use a range of wires including 20, 22 and 24 awg. I think having all 24awg may be a benefit, compared to having some of the larger sizes and the variety of sizes, but maybe not since the new Pro-11 Ref now uses the variety of sizes. My previous comparisons show both to be very well textured and smooth with good body and perhaps a bit more "boom" to the bass with the Pro-9, which I believe may be related to the various sized wires and the larger 20awg wires, while the Pro-11+ may be a touch clearer and more natural sounding....or maybe that is my imagination.
Regarding the skinning, get a good utility knife with a new blade for the outer PVC which is tough. Maintain a constant depth of cut that doesn't penetrate the inner PVC too deep. Run one slit down opposite sides, pull it free of the inner casing and then pull each side simultaneously. It comes off hard but certainly can be done once you get it started. Change the blade often. For the inner (more flexible) PVC, use a sharp blade and again cut two slits on opposite sides while staying away from the wires. Pull the two sides simultaneously and you will be left with the wrapped wires. Another good thing about this wire, is that the dielectric is a foamed teflon and can be stripped with your fingernails.
Good luck with your project.