How do you know if a cable is neutral?


I hear this all the time, this or that cable is neutral, or less neutral or more neutral. What are the criteria for "neutral"? How do know when a cable is neutral? Interested in opinions and examples. No bluebook required though.
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Especially in context of cables, I have never experienced a neutral cable. Every cable I have ever heard has an identifiable frequency balance, along with its own speed, resolution, noise floor, articulation and a group of other variables. Probably the closest you can get to a definition of neutral is that the frequency balance seems evenhanded and that no frequency band sounds obviously exaggerated after extended listening. Oddly, many cables labelled as neutral have very little midrange but extended highs and lows. This is not the way music sounds and cannot possibly reflect the music on the disc. Nor does music sound dark or analytic or consistently cool. These are attributes of playback equipment and are therefore superimposed colorations.