Power Cords Snake Oil ??

Hmmm...first post by Pierre620. I suspect a shill.

At $7300 - I would hope it would change peoples minds - at least in a positive direction.

There's also the TOTL - Odin Supreme Reference from Nordost @ $7000 (I believe that's the price)

Now back to the real world...

So since my first append above I have added a DH Labs Power Plus PC to my system at a very reasonable $49 for 7 ft of cable+ $40 for connectors.

Replacing the 10 awg furutech cable on my amp made no difference to the sound!
- but then it didn't get any worse :-)
- the furutech cost $250 to build myself

Replacing 15 awg Furutech DIY cable on the power conditioner however did result in a significant improvement across the board...
- improved detail across the complete frequency range
- more spacious 3D stage
- smoother highs
- deeper bass
- more dynamic

all in all - a nice little upgrade :-)

The Furutech seems to have "industrial" written all over it and would be right at home in harsh chemical environments.

The DH labs cable is not of the same build quality as the Furutech, But then it doesn't need to be because it's designed for audio use only and has great quality copper, which is the important thing here.

AND - if you search AG forums there are many references to DH Labs and their very respectable performance levels.

If you are thinking about upgrading PC's - give DH Labs Power Plus a whirl

If you live in a harsh environment - or just want a cable built like a TANK! - try the Furutech

Why did I decide to try DH Labs over other cables like Pangea? - well, their whole design philosophy made a lot of sense and they laid their designs out on the web for everyone to see, just like Furutech and Van Den Hul does.

Seeing it helps me believe it :-)

Companies that just tell me "it will sound better!"
- well that's just asking me to rub on the snake oil :-)

OK, so since my last posting I've had a chance to revamp a few parts of my system and the following is what transpired...

I looked at the bottlenecks in my power supply components and in the power supply to the phono stage and the DAC the fuses seemed the weakest link. I replaced them with push button breakers, which allowed the attached sources to really improve their performance.

I also replaced the power conditioner with a DIY power distribution centre that utilized Pass and Seymour outlets and a push button breaker for safety.

I then tried some different power cord combinations and found that the Furutech outperformed the DH Labs Encore cable - not by a lot, but it was discernible.

The DH Labs Power Plus cable is still a top performer, capable of satisfying the most dynamic power demands.

So, my new benchmark power cables are the Furutech.

But if your budget will not stretch to their price point, the DH Labs power cables are very respectable options at a much more affordable cost.

Cost conscious readers should also take a look at the Vanguard line of connectors on eBay, which are gold on copper and very affordable at $23 for a mains plug and an IEC connector.

Enjoy:-)

If power cords can't make a difference, then nothing else in this hobby should either.

If you think stranded copper wire will sound just the same as solid core, then a tube amp should sound the same as a solid state amp.

If you think 18 guage zip wire sounds as good as Crystal cable,then a 300B tube sounds the same as an el84.

But of course nothing sounds the same as anything except it's self.Especially so if the gear are constructed from different materials and in different ways.An amp is an amp,if they meet the same specs they should sound identical.But do they all sound the same?
Remember when people avoided cars made on Fidays and Mondays?
I would like to know what amp has the ideal sound, so that we can clone it?
Sorry, I've never heard a modelling amp that when compared directly to the "source" sounds exactly the same.
Somehow old black face Fender amps sound different than the newer ones do, even if the names are the same.
A synthed Hammond B3 sound is nice, but nothing can match the real vintage B3 with a Leslie 145.
They sound about the same, but it's more like listening to a recording of a B3/Hammond,while the real thing sounds like the real thing.
And that comes from working onstage in a group with a Hammond X2 played by one fellow and a real B3,Leslie, played by another.The real thing has more presence, and the sound pressure(not volume) just envelopes you more than the synth organ.

Something tells me a small 5 inch woofer will sound a bit different than a Klanghorn, even if moddeled after the Klanghorn.

I remember reading about a fellow doing a repair to Robbie Robertson's guitar years ago, and noticed that one of his pickups had more windings around the magnet than he was used to seeing.
Robbie always had a "sound" but no one knew it was all just a chance happening.The fellow at the Fender factory was nearing the end of the roll winding the pickup and decided to just let the spool run out.
The extra bit of wire made the difference in sound.
That fellow, was Seymour Duncan,and he made a name for himself out of this discovery.

But why buy any of his pickups?
Why should they sound any different than a stock pick up?

Why should a $15,000.00 Clearaudio cartridge sound any better than a $150.00 Grado?
They are both capable of doing the job.
Why spend more if you don't have to?

Well you don't.
Some folks are quite happy with a cheaper Grado, in a system of cheaper components using zip wire, stock power cords and straight into the wall.

And then there are those who aren't .

To appreciate the good stuff, you have to ween yourself away from the mediocre stuff, and forget about all the science that tells you nothing should make a difference.

That's the kind of belief in science that put the fear of falling off the edge of the earth into everyone's minds,until someone proved the science wrong.

I understand there are those who can not distinguish differences in power cords, fuses, etc,but all that proves is that they do not hear the differences.
THat doesn't mean that no one else can't or is incapable of hearing differences.
There could be many reasons for this,physical, gear related, lack of learning how to listen crtically,attention deficit disorders,or just the desire to use listening to music as a way to block out the stress of the day.Passive listening habits.
If all you want from your sound is a bit of relief, then why sweat the hard stuff trying to improve the sound?
That's just more work and stress.And it costs money, which I have other things that appeal more to me to spend it on.

But for me it's all about sweating out the details.
After I did, the listening experience was even more rewarding.

Power cords,and other things labelled snake oil have given me some of the best sound ever.
All I have to do is to take them out and go back to "stock"
to prove it to myself.
And I'm the only one I need to prove it to.

Being away from Hi-Fi for a couple decades, I am amazed at some of the things I am seeing now. Quality of a digital cable such as USB or HSMI clearly cannot make a difference since the cheapest disposable cables virtually do not drop or change any bits. These cables operate at a macro level. Analog speaker cables are another matter because the timing and intensity of electron flow can be easily influenced. Can an 8 foot speaker cable be worth $17,000/pr? Of course not, that would be stupid. Before your cables are broken in, there would be an $18,000 cable that is just so much better. Nevertheless, a wealthy person with a finely developed ear may justify the wire without giving a thought to the millions of starving children in this country that have no speaker wire whatsoever. ( or old people that only have zip cord, oh God)

So, expensive digital cables, No. Expensive speaker cables and interconnects, yep, no conscience allowed.

But what about these pesky A/C cords where a molded version comes on just about every audio/video component and computer? Does the tainted water theory hold any water? Sort of because you can pour water out of your faucet into the finest crystal goblet and it will still be the same brackish swill that came out of your faucet. No filtration, same swill. Furthermore, it won't come out any faster, volume wise, if you invert a funnel and put a nozzle on it. So, if you decide to plug into an outlet that has 14 gauge aluminum wire strung through the push in connectors on the back of 8 other outlets before your chosen stereo outlet, you are basically going to get swill out of your outlet. An A.C cable is a passive device being neither a filter nor a conditioner. It will not stabilize voltage shifts or drop RF noise. Actually a good cord will transmit those things very accurately.

Yet when an audiofile the likes of Arthur Salvatore say they make a difference, you damn well better believe they do. If the cord cannot improve the nature of your service, then how can a fancy cord be better than taking a 5 foot piece of 12 gauge Romex and putting good connectors on the end? The assumption must be that the cables that come with equipment are so poorly constructed that 50 cents worth of Romex and 10 dollars worth of connectors, to maintain the "quality" of the in wall wiring, is dramatically better. It appears that most listeners with high end equipment have line conditioners that come before the high end power cord and following them are high dollar distribution centers (read that power strips). So you fix the swill as much as possible and then try to keep it pure. That makes some sense but that brings us to another question...

If a manufacturer of high end amplifiers and speakers, let's say Coincidence Speaker Technology for example, providing as they do. some of the best equipment in the world, just what do they give away with the A/C powered units? They don't give away speaker cable with their speakers. Can it be that they do not provide an A/C cable at all? There web site, which is truly excellent by the way, does not mention what their equipment comes with. They do sell a $450 A/C cord but when you read about people using there amplifiers, they usually have some other high end cord. Now, Coincident makes a statement (no pun intended) that some of their items are manufactured to the finest degree possible. "The build quality of the Statement Phono is the finest available. It was designed with no cost restraints and the highest priority placed on sonic performance". I would be very interested to know if they ship their equipment without power cords. I guess I'll find out when I order some. It seems like if they sent their $450 cord with each item that that would be denoted in their literature and it seems that if they shipped without a cord that that would also be denoted. After all, speakers do not ship with wires but the standard when you buy an A/C item is to get a damn cord with it. Now, if Coincidence puts a cheap cord on their equipment, they should post a warning tag on it that it must be replaced or all their no restraint work will be wasted.

I liked the mention by another poster that people re-wire their homes and provide dedicated circuits for their audio gear, many of us have been doing that for 50 years.

Another good idea is to order 10 different high end cords and demand a 90 day return policy before purchase. Then send 9 of them back after comparing them. Really, with USPO flat rate shipping, this would be cheap. Hopefully at least one of them will make a noticeable difference. Make someone else swap the cables blindly or you will just be placeboing yourself. Of course if you have been convinced that a 200 hour break in is necessary, then comparing cables is impractical. If your equipment needs a multi-hour run to re-break in itself every time your drop the power from it, you are kind of SOL as well.

The true fact is that you will never realize the true potential of your equipment. Everything affects everything else. It's entirely likely that when you have found your perfect A/C cord, you'll decide to change your turntable bedding or your cartridge or your speakers and guess what, that cord will no longer test the best. All is lost if you change your amplifiers or house wiring, things directly connected to your spendy A/C cord. Nope, you're stuck with your amplifiers and transports and DAC's forever once you buy that cord!

JAH