Exotic turntables. Eye candy

Albert, Yes, you're right. The SP10 needs a dense and heavy wooden plinth. Baltic birch or maple ply/layers are definitely best suited for the job. Yes, I have seen the Wenge in a wood mill and it is a very nice wood. Somehow, wood adds a nice harmonic texture to the music. I now have my eyes on a piece of cocobolo for my armboards.

Please let us on Audiogon know how your project goes.

Oregon, your Lenco looks cool! How does it sound?

Cheers to everyone!

Albert and Genesis:
I have a couple of questions regarding SP-10 plinths. I have been doing research prior to building a plinth for my SP-10 Mk2A.

My first question is why would a SP-10 need a dense and heavy (massive) wooden plinth? So far as I know, it is very smooth in operation (particularly with the brake removed) compared to rim drive tables which could benefit from mass. I've seen photos of studio SP-10s mounted in metal frames which don't appear to be all that massive, although those may not have offered optimal performance. Is everyone simply copying the idea from the Obsidian plinths offered by Technics?

Second, most information on plinth building comes from the Home Depot TT series where CLD is strongly recommended. But on the DirectDrive site an all Birch ply construction is favored (they don't discuss CLD options). Can either of you comment on benefits or negatives about including 2-3 layers of MDF in a CLD Birch ply sandwich? This assumes that mass is indeed beneficial.

Thanx for any input.

Pryso, I can't tell you constrained layer or multi ply birch are superior with the SP10 MK2, I've not even completed mine yet.

Audiogon member Vetterone has done a LOT of experiments with plints. You can contact him via the Audiogon server by looking up his name.

My experiments with my Lenco proved to me that heavier plinths were superior to the lightweight original. I wish I had gone even heavier with the Lenco construction, so I intend on going over the top with the Technics.

I think the Technics with plinth and arm will be close to 100 pounds, we're even adding brass plates to attach the arm board and a brass plate in the bottom to draw energy from the direct drive bearing in addition to the other materials in the plinth.

From what I've read on the internet by tweakers, the MDF is a blessing and a curse. Some like it and some don't. To read about some of these projects, go to Google and type in Garrard 301 plinth, Technics SP 10 and Thorens Plinth. After clicking links and multiple pages of each search, you will likely find more material than you want to read.

When my arm arrives I'll do nice photo's so you and everyone else can see how my project is progressing. I've studied several dozen photo's and I suspect my project will look somewhat like what others have come up with. You can't deviate too far and fit the table :^).

Here's a very popular page on Technics, you may have already been there.

http://www.soundfountain.com/amb/amb.html

Well, you can use anything you wish to build a plinth. High mass is recommended because that is a way to damp off the vibrations. As with all materials, there is a main resonant frequency associated with each different material. This is very important. IMO, using wood in general is best suited because the resonant frequency is more pleasing to the ear.

You can try using different wood but I recommend Maple, oak, birch and other hard woods as a start.

Albert,
Do you feel that any of your projects with direct drives or idlers could surpass the sound that you get from your belt-driven Walker table?