Needing To Order Turntable Feet. Looking For Options and Experiences


Time to get some proper feet under the DP80 project. Currently have some temporary ones there. The question is to go hard feet that are pointed, or to go with compliant feet. 

 

The complete table weighs a tad over 50 pounds. The plinth is made from uhmw, an industrial polymer. Not an overly heavy plinth, but by listening sessions it does appear to do a great job in its role. 

One option is a set of magnetic feet I got with my DP75 table that replaced the stock Denon feet. I cannot tell the manufacturer, but AI tells me from an image that they are Michell that predate the Levis feet. I could repurpose them. 

 

I have also looked at these. One set is designed for VP19 turntable weight, which is a similar amount. 

 

I do want an option that allows for leveling. I am curious to learn from other folks experiences. 

 

 

neonknight

There are many ways to achieve your goal as indicated by the great responses you’ve received thus far. I use feet provided on my TT (Rega NAIA) and place it directly on an isolation platform from IsoAcoustics. This allows me to use a tonearm lifter for the TT. Then for the feet under the isolation platform I use Levar Magnetic Resonance feet from Germany. I tried several solutions, including the IsoAcoustics feet, and Levar are pretty amazing. James at Choice Audio was very helpful with this question. The Levar’s are expensive and I’m generally not into gimmicks, but these were very much worth it. I chose the self-leveling versions to get everything level and balanced. 
 

https://choiceaudio.com/products/levar-resonance-magnetic-absorbers-height-adjustable?srsltid=AfmBOooeSj2fY-MNcW8lDAFV-jb9CMW3hvyn63Qp5DGT467Mb9ATVOqq

solid wood feet are usually not the best choice because wood is relatively rigid and tends to transmit and sometimes resonate with vibrations rather than absorb them.

My system is in my basement which has a tilted floor for water drainage.  I needed 2" of adjustability for my turntable.  You might be able to DIY, but a modder, since retired, replaced the rubber feet on my turntable with thick screws that are adjustable with thumb nuts.  At the bottom is an inverted plastic cup that is sized to house a standard rubber racket ball.  So I get extreme adjustability with excellent vibration damping.  When the racket balls lose their elasticity, usually once a year, I just swap in new ones.  

I was fortunate to find a healthy communication with the Materials Tester, who, to my knowledge, was the Godfather of the concept of using Panzerholz and later Permali for audio-related purposes. 

This individual was introduced to a tough time from within a forum for making available measured DF and Dissipation for a large selection of materials used as A structure within audio.

My relationship with them developed to the point that I was sending material squares to undergo testing.

Through this person and their shared content, I was to learn a substantial amount about recorded DF / Dissipation readings for a large range of materials typically seen as purposed for audio applications.   

I was mixing materials and footers - tiers of materials and footers for a very long time and was all the better for the learning I had. 

Panzerholz came later, as it was not a cheap option; to get on top of costs, Boards were imported from Germany and then cut down in a local machine shop to the dimensions required.  This allowed for both Plinth and Sub Plinths to be utilised.

Using Panzerholz superseded all that was used before and remains today in use as a Multi-Tier Sub Plinth and a TT's Plinth.

This period of learning has left indelible pointers to be followed, of which one has been, for one to not assume they can predict a DF/Dissipation of a material because it is thought as being understandable without a science to support the pith being presented  

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For items that do not store energy dead balls can be a really good place to start.

As far as user adjust-ability they are not top of the list but well worth the hassle for the performance they can deliver when directly supporting a TT. The curve of the ball also helps in horizontal stability this can be  something spring loaded footers often struggle with when you have a really heavy TT placed on them.

Like many others here I prefer splitting the stand duties into two, a sturdy well made base stand for a DIY mass loaded sub plinth to placed on. If you level everything as you go the need for highly adjustable TT feet greatly diminishes. Cheers!

 

https://www.amazon.com/Enjoyer-Tricks-So-Routines-Possible-Magician/