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Looking for New AV Processor

Hi All,

I posted back in 2023, got some good advice, but never pulled the trigger on anything as I spent too much coin on camera gear! So I’m back, asking the same question as the options may have changed a little since 2023!

So let’s start with my current setup:

B&W CM10’s front left and right
B&W Center 2 front
B&W 685’s rear left and right
B&W PV1 sub
Yamaha CX-A5000 AV Processor

Monolith 7X Amp
Panasonic DP-UB820 Blu-ray Player
Sony 65” X900H TV

At the time the Yamaha CX-A5000 was a budget pick based on financials as I was moving from a Pioneer SC-27 receiver to an amp + processor setup, so I feel the processor is now the weakest link in my system, thus considering an upgrade and would to hear some expert advice. My budget is ~$2k - $2.5k and I’m going to buy 2nd hand.

Regarding video, my current processor isn’t HDR capable so I’m looking for at least 4K HDR10 capabilities in regards to video content, but ideally 4K HDR 10+ & Dolby Vision capable. With regards to music, most of my listening 24bit HD music. If there’s one characteristic of the sound I’d like to improve with this upgrade is that currently my setup can become a bit bright / harsh when watching movies (Blu-ray source mostly) and I’d like a bit more ooomph in terms of bass.

Looking at previous recommendations and searching ebay, the following are my current picks:

1) Marantz AV8805A

2) Anthem AVM70

3) Rotel RSP-1582

The Rotel is now a bit outdated and gets mixed reviews overall, especially regarding durability, but they always had the reputation of being a good pairing with B&W speakers? But both Marantz and Anthem get rave reviews so I think it’s between these two really? Advice welcomed as always.

 

Kev Doc

kdochert
toro3's avatar
toro3
501 posts
 

There’s lots of conflicting info out there on topics like LFE only or LFE + Main, so open to further advice on setup.
 

For context I have the AV-7705. There’s a pretty good Audyssey thread on AVS Forum that I had followed some years ago. LFE was the consensus. Otherwise your subs and mains could cancel each other out in the lower frequency range with LFE+Main. Additionally, having the processor crossing over the mains at say 80Hz typically provides greater headroom from your separate amp while reducing distortion during demanding home theater moments. 

The “double bass” via LFE+Mains looks great in the menu setting, but it’s actually counterproductive when attempting to avoid nulls while maximizing impact of the subs and integration with the Mains.

Question: Pure Direct On for just listening to music or is it always on? I understand Pure Direct looks great on paper, but in practice it was never a preference (for me), especially for HT usage. And I could be wrong, but Pure Direct bypasses Audyssey room mitigation (correction).

kdochert OP
30 posts
 

Yes, Pure Direct bypasses Audyssey corrections but I didn’t like that setup anyway.

Regarding LFE only, my understanding is the sub will only deliver LFE channel sound, so if listening to two channel stereo the sub will be inactive. I’ll have to dig through the manual and see if I can save different setups for different content.

I’ll play around with the crossover also, but I think the right crossover depends on how competent your speakers are at delivering the low end.

kdochert OP
30 posts
 

Diving into the manual a bit more, so long as the speakers are set to "Small" (as I have), the sub will still be active for frequencies below the crossover when set to LFE only, which is contradictory to other "web info", so I've reverted back to LFE only not LFE + Main. Now I need to play around with 60hz vs 80hz crossover and then dial in the sub again.

seismicfrog
16 posts
 

Second hand, you say? Go upmarket and get a Datasat, which by now have depreciated and are available. I picked up my LS10 for ~$2500 18 months ago and it continues to do wonders. I just don’t route video through it. 

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