replacement parts or replacement woofer for ElectroVoice 15W, 16 ohm made in 1958

I put these 16 ohm L-Pads in just a few years ago

https://www.parts-express.com/L-Pad-100W-Mono-3-8-Shaft-16-Ohm-260-261?quantity=1

What new woofer breaking in (an original)?

My take is that with an original "doorstop" woofer that needs a rebuild I would try the 16 ohm rebuild kit and then compare it to the functioning woofer.

If it sounds good, then rebuild the other woofer.

Of course, I would not actually do such as I’m lazy and have to many other things on my plate to deal with (all stacked up because mainly I’m lazy).

DeKay

Breaking IN

As it happens, I had just measured my speaker's frequency response on the 17th, to see how they compared to the last time I measured and adjusted their L-Pads in 2023. Amazing to me, they held their positions/settings/output. No funny noises at any of the twenty nine 1/3 octave test tones.

Playing a very dynamic LP, I heard something I didn't like from the left side (heard it with a friend last week also), and decided to put my last new 15W in it's place, see if it goes away.

The bass from the left side was distinctly more pronounced from the new woofer left side. Next day I played some, next day my friend came over, I went to demo the loud left side, and it was not so much louder any more.

As I said, these are not foam surrounds, they are three V shaped folds in paper the same as the cone. Very tight and stiff when new. I think they are loosening up with play, a natural breaking in, and that is why it was so loud initially.

I am purposely playing dynamic music that includes much bass for a while, then I will get the SPL Meter on the Tripod and re-measure, compare L output to R output, and new measurements to 3-17-26 with the original woofer.

As I said, I have 1 rebuild kit, same woofer cone that came with the new woofer when I bought them, which implies the coil matches the coil of the woofer it was purchased with. i.e. flat wire wound or round wire wound (which effects the efficiency). 

So, even though I have re-coned these successfully myself in the past, IF something does not go well, the last matching coil and woofer cone will be lost. Then, I will need to do a matching pair with Aftermarket Kits with less efficient round wire coils. Thus, I am trying to get in touch with MillerSound (1-1/2 hours drive) and hope they will use my parts and rebuild one. For some reason, the email link is not opening on my computer.

Meanwhile the noise. Playing CDs same as the LPs I was playing, with dynamic content, no noise. I will play the same cartridge I was using, same LP, get to the track that was playing, see if it is gone, OR, was it the Cartridge? I'll play it as is, then I will reset all alignments and play again. This is one I bought used, and VAS has not checked it for me yet. Next, I will change to a different cartridge VAS recently ok'd and play that track again.

here’s the rebuild kit

When buying speaker cables, remember all juice goes thru the tiny wires of the coil!

I transferred the original wires from the Fisher console to my new enclosures. Notice they used larger wire (huge) to the woofer from the crossover (yellow and black). You cannot see, but they are all disconnected (from the L-Pads mounted in the removed back panel), so you can’t tell which is which looking at this.

I was shocked the 1st time I saw the small wires inside speakers that makers used in speakers that made them famous.

Millersound, my best 'close enough' chance to get a pro to do it, says: Sorry, NO

Greetings Elliott,

Checked and I no longer have any parts for this E-V.  I never ordered more, for the following reasons:

1-The weight of the units, as they have to be moved at least 8 to 10 times.

2-Lack of space to safely store them, during their 4 to 5 week stay, in my small home shop. Easily damaged of course.

3-If I still did them, no one would want to pay $300 + tax per unit. 

4-Cost of parts, boxing/packing and UPS/Fedex dimensional weight fees are ridiculous.

I just stick to the smaller & lighter stuff. It’s the only way to make money, in this business. (Note that all the real re-coners have closed)

Very Respectfully,

Bill Legall"

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So, I ordered a glue kit from Simply Speakers, and my friend and I will rebuild my oldest 15W with seriously dried out cracking paper cone.

If the noise turns out to be the cartridge, not the speaker on the Left side that I removed, that leaves me with a matched pair of 15Ws with EV logos, i.e. I re-coned them years ago with EV parts.

I'll make my own shim out of card stock.

Thanks everyone for the helpful suggestions.

btw, I just measured, the new Left Woofer measures +1.5 db over the old right side, still breaking L side in.