replacement parts or replacement woofer for ElectroVoice 15W, 16 ohm made in 1958


Note: these are NOT foam surrounds

I've written many suppliers today:

"I am wondering if you have a cone kit or cone/coil kit for my Vintage ElectroVoice 15W, 16 ohm Woofers (made in 1958). 
 
Here is a link to their specs
 
file:///C:/Users/elliott/Desktop/15W,%2015BW,%2015WK,%2015BWK%20EDS.pdf
 
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also, What replacement woofer might you suggest" _____?
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They have a 5-1/4 lb magnet, and 2-1/2" coil.
 
I might find a 15" woofer, but 8 ohms, how might I use 8 ohm driver in a 3 way system with 16 ohm crossover and 16 ohm horn tweeter and horn mid.?
 
It has an ElectroVoice  crossover X336, in a Tar Filled Metal Can, I'm told they are indestructible.
 
file:///C:/Users/elliott/Desktop/X6_X8_X425_X825_X36_X336_X2635_Engineering_Data_Sheet.pdf
 
thanks for any help,
 
Elliott
elliottbnewcombjr

I just read more about flat vs round wire and wish I knew about this in the 60's when I was rebuilding/rewinding slot car motors for competition endouros.

Being low on funds I rewound blown motors gifted to me by other enthusiasts with the gold standard being a round/cylindrical motor by Globe.

Anyway, how much do you figure you lose with the round wire?

 

DeKay

 

 

@dekay 

Not sure, Al at speaker.com said, the specs then and now are so different, it's possible this suggested alternate driver, 97db 1w/1m with neodymium magnet type would be a bit louder, we would simply have to try it. I doubt it, my horns are very efficient, but Tweeter T350 specs are EIA Sensitivity Rating 60db

https://faitalpro.com/en/products/LF_Loudspeakers/product_details/index.php?id=151060151

I might have to ease the mounting holes in the new larger frame a bit closer by .14" to use my existing T-Nuts in the front panel that is covered with white linen, wrapped, stapled, not easy to put new ones in.

Meanwhile, the new woofer is breaking in, not so much louder than the right side as it was the 1st day, so I will break it in some more (integral surround, several v shaped folds in the cone's paper, not separate, not foam

What new woofer breaking in (an original)?

My take is that with an original "doorstop" woofer that needs a rebuild I would try the 16 ohm rebuild kit and then compare it to the functioning woofer.

If it sounds good, then rebuild the other woofer.

Of course, I would not actually do such as I’m lazy and have to many other things on my plate to deal with (all stacked up because mainly I’m lazy).

 

DeKay

Breaking IN

As it happens, I had just measured my speaker's frequency response on the 17th, to see how they compared to the last time I measured and adjusted their L-Pads in 2023. Amazing to me, they held their positions/settings/output. No funny noises at any of the twenty nine 1/3 octave test tones.

Playing a very dynamic LP, I heard something I didn't like from the left side (heard it with a friend last week also), and decided to put my last new 15W in it's place, see if it goes away.

The bass from the left side was distinctly more pronounced from the new woofer left side. Next day I played some, next day my friend came over, I went to demo the loud left side, and it was not so much louder any more.

As I said, these are not foam surrounds, they are three V shaped folds in paper the same as the cone. Very tight and stiff when new. I think they are loosening up with play, a natural breaking in, and that is why it was so loud initially.

I am purposely playing dynamic music that includes much bass for a while, then I will get the SPL Meter on the Tripod and re-measure, compare L output to R output, and new measurements to 3-17-26 with the original woofer.

As I said, I have 1 rebuild kit, same woofer cone that came with the new woofer when I bought them, which implies the coil matches the coil of the woofer it was purchased with. i.e. flat wire wound or round wire wound (which effects the efficiency). 

So, even though I have re-coned these successfully myself in the past, IF something does not go well, the last matching coil and woofer cone will be lost. Then, I will need to do a matching pair with Aftermarket Kits with less efficient round wire coils. Thus, I am trying to get in touch with MillerSound (1-1/2 hours drive) and hope they will use my parts and rebuild one. For some reason, the email link is not opening on my computer.

Meanwhile the noise. Playing CDs same as the LPs I was playing, with dynamic content, no noise. I will play the same cartridge I was using, same LP, get to the track that was playing, see if it is gone, OR, was it the Cartridge? I'll play it as is, then I will reset all alignments and play again. This is one I bought used, and VAS has not checked it for me yet. Next, I will change to a different cartridge VAS recently ok'd and play that track again.