Cary Audio CAD-280SA V12R



Anyone heard one of these? from R to I series upgrade? I'm looking for an amp
that sounds great, but able to use 6L6s - KT90s.  Single Ended or Push-Pull.
This seems to be pretty easy to swap drivers for signature change, currently
has EL34 valves, Red Rubies? stockers. 
FR from 20hz - 23KHZ, really great specs, fully balanced.
Anyone know about these V12s
oldhvymec

I had one of the amps, (actually, I still have it in a box in the basement).

It was probably the sweetest sounding amp I have ever had.

I thought maybe the best thing about it was that you could run it in UL mode, or Triode mode, OR WONDERFULLY in two different hybrid modes.

For each channel there are three switches to choose between between UL or Triode mode, but they all don’t have to be set to the same mode (and you can switch them on the fly with the amp on). 

So for instance you can put the front and back switch on UL and the middle switch on Triode.  This configuration gives you 83 watts per channel. 

Or, you can put the front and back switch on Triode and the middle switch to UL.  This configuration gives you 67 watts per channel. 
 

It depended on the music which of these two configurations I would choose. 2/3 UL for more drive and dynamics, or 2/3 Triode for more warmth and smoothness.
 (I never ran it in all UL—too clean and sterile.  I never ran it in all Triode—too soggy and bloated.) 

 

I loved it. 

All fixed up. I ran this all winter and really enjoyec listening to the big, round sound that never fatigues. I am sure the Cary SLP-98 preamp is a a major factor. Put on the shelf for now. Replaced with a little synthesis ensemble integrated. Like swapping a Duesenberg out for a Maserati.

"@jngrausr Right channel pushed >500mA all down the line and cooks the EL34s. The fuse blows when I have 3-4 tubes in the chain. I did not smell or see anythibg on that side. May the bias circuit has a malfunction? Any clue?"

Looking at some different notes on this, one item called out that it could be. Many of us who owned these amps proactively replaced some of the more common failing parts due to heat and age. Here is one thing to to look at or have a tech check for. 

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"Coupling Capacitor Leakage (very common)", 

  • Each output tube grid is fed through a coupling capacitor from the driver stage.

If this capacitor leaks DC voltage, it pushes the grid positive and the tube conducts heavily.  Symptoms are:

  • Bias cannot be lowered enough

  • Tubes run hot

  • One channel only

This is a classic failure mode in older Cary amps if caps are aging.

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