How do small woofers produce large bass?


Hi All,

I am looking at loudspeakers... I currently own the Arendal 1723 THX Monitors. 2 8" woofers each. I listen to probably 80% home theater and 20% pure two-channel music of all sorts. I am contemplating upgrading the speakers, and there are a number that I am very interested in. The Arendals are killer for music and home theater. In fact crazy amazing at home theater. I have also 2 SVS SB-3000 subs. 

But as we all know, wanting to upgrade. blah blah ad nauseum.  :) 
 And most everything I’m looking at has 6.5" bass drivers, usually 2 per speaker. I am looking at the Acoustic Energy Corinium, the KEF R11 Meta, the Dali Opticon 8 MKII, and the PSB T600.

I have a fear that the bass will be plenty for two-channel music, but won’t have that bad-ass slam of the Arendal’s dual 8" drivers. So my question is sort of a scientific one or a physics one. I am baffled as to how the 6.5" drivers in all of these new speakers are going to produce home theater sized bass. I’ve watched every video, read every article about those 4 contenders (above) - and everything/everybody says essentially "no worries, the woofers are lighter and faster, and since there are two of them, they make a great deal of bass. I just think I’m not seeing the "science" or "physics" of that. Like how are these 6.5" drivers going to handle something incredibly powerful/dynamic (bomb blasts/gun shots/thunder/explosions etc etc???  I’m afraid I’ll be let down by something like the PSB T600’s or the KEF R11 Metas when head to head with the dual 8" drivers in my Arendals. I’m hoping people can assure me and/or run through the science....  thanks to all.    Oh, and yes, I do cross over to my two subs at 60Hz.   

audiotruth

@josepad 

Wgat does your amp have anything to do with this?

You mentioned you need power to make bass.

 

@emergingsoul 

It's a marketing gimmick. Subwoofers can make really good tables. 

Some guys are suckered to spend 90% of the budget on subs for 0.006% of the bandwidth (120Hz/20,000).

 

I’d hate to see people reading stuff like this and spend their money thinking full range speakers can replace subs and find out it’s not true. I still advocate full range + subs is the way to go.

 

I also can’t stand the girls in AVS and ASR who think a 650" subwoofer and a 1" speaker is high quality music. To them, SPL is quality bass. It’s physics and science they say. That’s like saying a 650" subwoofer cone is quicker, faster and more detailed than a beryllium cone. It’s grade F science.

@bartsw 

I never mentioned anything about power is needed for bass, you must be confusing your posts and which your reading. Most subs today are powered subs so they have their own amps, usually class D amps in the case of SVS. My SB2000 are rated at 500 watts RMS and 1100 watts peak, more than enough.

Although I do agree that subs are generally needed to get a full frequency range performance. Many subs don’t even rate to 20Hz, but about 30Hz is where they are rated. The internal xover of the SB2000 only goes to 50Hz, for me to use them and integrate them properly I need an external crossover that will go to 20Hz setting. If I use them with my Canton Vento 100, I’ll be cancelling some low frequencies and just cause myself issues.

I’ve tried for years to like certain speakers, especially recently when I was speaker shopping, but none of them gave me the low end slam, details that I was looking for. Not until I demo the Canton Vento 100.

Regardless, in general whatever speaker you get, to get deep sub 25Hz full range you will need subs.

I stopped reading ASR years ago, as he (they) are 1000% about specs, not about how the gear sounds or system synergy.

@josepad 

The internal xover of the SB2000 only goes to 50Hz

That's easy. You can wing it and put the subs in the opposite side of the room. Better if you have digital eq, room measurement software, or room correction, you can knock down the overlap.

Acoustic Energy Corinium, the KEF R11 Meta, the Dali Opticon 8 MKII, and the PSB T600

I’ve watched every video, read every article about those 4 contenders (above) - and everything/everybody says essentially "no worries, the woofers are lighter and faster, and since there are two of them, they make a great deal of bass.

Acoustic Energy Corinium: 38Hz – 25kHz (±3 dB), 2 x 6.5" cone woofers

KEF R11 Meta - 46Hz - 28kHz (±3 dB), 4 x 6.5" cone woofers

Dali Opticon 8 MKII: 38Hz – 30kHz (±3 dB), 2 x 8" cone woofers

PSB Synchrony T600: 24Hz – 33kHz (±3 dB), 3 x 6.5" cone woofers

Honestly, the only pair that really impressed me with its bass extension is the PSB Synchrony T600, reaching down to 24 Hz—almost full-range. The other three pairs weren’t as remarkable, so I didn’t go into detail on them. Their bass performance could easily be achieved by a good bookshelf or standmount design.

I would attribute the T600’s hefty bass response primarily to the combination of its triple-port tuning (for low frequencies), three 6.5″ woofers, generous cabinet volume, and stiff internal bracing with thick wall and damping materials. The port dimensions behind each woofer were carefully optimized to achieve low tuning frequencies. In fact, you can block or partially plug some or all of the ports to adjust the low-frequency response for different room acoustics, and the resulting changes could be substantial.

All of these contribute to the so-called low-Q alignment, enabling smooth extension down to 24 Hz. The three 6.5″ cone woofers have an effective radiating area equivalent to two 8″ woofers, and roughly halfway between a single 10″ and 12″ woofer. The high excursion of each woofer also allows the system to move more air than average drivers, enhancing low-frequency output.

 

 

 

@bartsw wrote:

I would't disagree with the possibly of using HT speakers in this application. But I disagree with people using the term physics and science as if it's a complete equation.

Physics are a prerequisite that's typically left out - that's the problem. That's not to say it's all about displacement area, but it sets the stage for priorities that should be covered as a primary concern and what this means for the design implications. 

A 12-15" HT driver can be room overload for many homes above 80Hz. Thus to get the most clean and beautiful sound for mid-range and music with the lease room mode, smaller drivers could be more appropriate.

When I said I don't consider drivers below 12-15" to be woofers from the perspective of the physics involved, it's also implying that midrange drivers should be somewhat larger than your typical 4 to 6.5" units (which again has design implications). Above the Schroeder frequency what exacerbates the reflective nature of emitted sound waves is a wider dispersive field from a smaller cone area, whereas a larger driver diameter and/or horn will narrow the dispersive field and thus heighthen the ratio of direct vs. reflected sound for less room interaction - an important aspect, if you ask me.

In addition a greater surface area from the upper bass into the lower to central midrange lends a much needed sense of physicality, commanding presence and ease in this region, but for drivers to be suitable for this it typically means woofer/midrange designs with higher efficiency crossed over to horns in the 500-1kHz range. 

So, physics here is also about accommodating radiation pattern control and uniformity and how this affects the sound we perceive. Unfortunately many seem to be focusing on loudness and overpowering a listening space when larger speakers designs are discussed, while leaving out above mentioned.

If you have a well-designed speaker system of higher efficiency with prodigious air radiation area and where the driver sections sum at the listening position, while factoring in the above re: dispersive nature, I see a far more capable speaker outset than what would be achievable from a smaller, low efficiency package where mentioned parameters are harder, not to say impossible to come by.