@tomcarr ​I remember seeing a video on YouTube What's in the box!?!?!?! - Klipsch LaScala AL5 Disassembly by Top Shelf Audio. So I watched it again and BOOM here it is just like I was thinking. You can easily fasten the LF cables directly to the HF and MF cables internally at the terminals. Therefore no need for jumpers or biwires. Just direct wires to wires internally fastened to the corresponding +ve and -ve terminal. I reached out to Klipsch. Let's see what they say.​​​​​​
Speaker Jumpers
Is anyone here experienced with a speaker jumper cables, in particularly Furutech JumperFlux-Spades? I've been told that they are an exceptional cable but need 200 to 300 hrs to break in? 🤔 200 hrs is probably when your ears don't remember how your system sounded previously lol. I've had them for 50 hrs now and with all due respect to Furutech, they sound terrible. The cheap $0.25 factory metal strips that came with my Klipsch LaScala AL5 speakers sound 100x better than these $560 CDN jumpers. I'm glad I didn't buy the $23,000 CDN jumpers by Ansuz!
So should I stick to the 200 hrs or accept my loss and move on?
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There are some who believe single wiring is a better way to go so, like many things in audio, there are folks on both sides. It all goes back to the same place at the amplifier. Most seem to like providing a lot of copper, whether bi-wiring or not, even though the math doesn't require it. FWIW, Cardas Clear Reflection speaker cables are approximately 4 awg per pole. |
But then you don’t have your $4000 an inch cable going to a $5 binding post, and then into your $1 a foot internal wire going to the drivers. That was sarcasm, but seriously, it makes you wonder why people don’t remove the internal speaker cable and take their exotic speaker cable and directly solder it to the crossover network/drivers? Has this been done? I even mentioned above one should use the same jumpers as speaker cable, but I don’t know this from listening experience, I am just reciting this as that is what I have read. Think about it though, after the binding posts the signal then goes into some low-cost internal speaker wire that has a length longer than the jumpers are, so I am starting to question this. Unless of course the internal speaker cable is of excellent quality; I know my internal speaker wire is silk covered copper from Duelund, so maybe I should try some Duelund speaker cable? Wilson’s have Transparent cable internally, so it makes sense to use Transparent, but many trial different brands and end up choosing something else, hopefully not Ansuz. Any idea what cable is inside the Klipsch @fire_water ? |
@mclinnguy I totally agree with you. Unfortunately Klipsch customer service has this to say. Are you ready for this nonsensical response? "Hi Michael. I reached out to our senior technical advisor team and they are saying the speakers are not designed to work that way. The speakers slit wiring between the drivers to allow for bi-ampability, which some people prefer" Obviously the terminals allow bi-amping. But you don't have to be an engineer to figure out that what can be bridged or jumped on the outside can easily be done on the inside. |
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