Tube rolling in Hagerman Trumpet MC


I have been doing some tube rolling in the Trumpet MC and am trying to be a sure as I can that I don't substitute a tube that could cause a problem.

It looks like from my very poor reading of the schematics that the V1 12ax7's are for initial gain pre RIAA, the second pair V2 are phase splitter post RIAA, and the 12au7's V3 are driver/output/cathode follower (not sure about that last one as the circuit doe not look like a typical cathode follower circuit and even looks like anode follower?).  Any enlightenment here would be helpful.  This is because even tubes that are considered "drop in" substitutes are not actually identical on the manufacturer spec sheets.  For instance the 5418 has a slightly higher heater current than and au7 and there might be another parameter that is different (Vhk?).  Even the 7316 is slightly different.  And of course the 5751 has lower gain than a ax7 as well as other differences.  Many of the differences are still within spec, and given what I can see from the online schematic of the Trumpet MC, look like no problem, but I just want to make sure.  I have emailed Jim Hagerman and he has been helpful when I have, but I hate to keep bugging him with my questions, so I will bug you guys instead.

Thanks for you help and the bandwidth.

oceanica

@pindac 

My experience of Tube Rolling on a Phonostage Circuit, has opened up quite a large opportunity to learn.

Today I encourage it but do strongly recommend that Valves selected are proven through ’impartial testing’ to be 95%+ of Factory Spec’, have almost perfect matching on each Half of Valve and the same between Valves.

While I do not disagree that you should get what you pay for and should strive to purchase and maintain healthy matched and balanced tubes, there is nothing wrong with using healthy, used tubes. 

In fact, to your point about the cost of tube rolling, a fantastic way to determine what it is that you like (and your system likes) and not have to spend much to do it, is buying low test or threshold tubes from a seller. As a seller, I often give away my threshold tubes to my clients so they can experience and learn from as many different types of tubes as possible. 

One thing to remember is that when you buy a new tube and hear it for the first time, that is not how that tube is going to sound when it gets fully burned in. Some tubes can take months – or a year even – to fully bloom. Hearing used tubes is a much better indicator to determine how something is going to sound than a few hours with brand new, possibly unstable, definitely not yet burned in tube which you then use to make like/don’t like determination about a certain tube type.

When Valves are added to a circuit that have such accuracy proven, there is something quite discernible to be discovered.

What is sure are Two Things:

1, Tube Rolling is no longer a cheap option, especially when Vintage Production Rea Stock is being bought.

Tube rolling doesn’t have to be expensive. I let my clients audition multiple sets of whatever type of tube they are after before any money ever changes hands. And for at least a couple of weeks. This lets you make a more informed choice by letting you hear multiple options in situ of your home, music, kit and life. Frankly, that’s the only way we should be choosing tubes.

2, Caveat Emptor is extremely important to exercise, how does one really know the quality of the Valves being received, unless able to be tested after receiving on behalf of the purchaser.

Build a relationship with a seller you can trust.

Few involved with Valves have a knowledge of the quality of the Valves being assessed for the influence on the produced End Sound. This as an outcome, makes it very difficult to be able to take reports on experiences had, as a valuable source of information.

This is untrue, at least among all the sellers I know — and it’s small world, let me tell you. We know our tubes very well. What we don’t know is how they are going to sound in your system with X Preamp, and Z Amp, and Y Speakers and in a room with a low ceiling and two barking dogs. There is no one other than you standing in your home in front of your rig that can tell you how it does or will sound. Period.

Prime Quality and Poor Quality Valves both enable sound to be produced. It is not for myself to suggest a Poor Quality Valve should be less impressive than the Valve it replaced? It might be a betterment, in the assessment of the individual having the experience of different Valves.

Some tubes are higher quality than others, that is true. But just because a tube is used does not make it poor quality. It makes it used. And nine times out of ten, that used tube will sound better than your brand new tube.

FTR, when having purchased 2 x New Stock Matched Input Valves. When tested prior to being used, one Valve measured so bad, the owner of the test machine advised it was not used. The guidance offered, being the Amp could be damaged!! Due to the unknown effect of such a Valve on the circuit.

Things can happen to tubes, I’ve had a number die in transit. It happens. But even the most mariginally reputable seller should have replaced that tube, no questions asked. 

My Valve Amp Designer / Builder, who become a friend of more than 30 years, has always made it known. I would be wise to allow for free service, for their checking of any Valves I may acquire outside of the original design. The idea being a simple mistake at my end is very easily avoided if overseen by their understanding of the Designs needs. They are also contented by my being able to have Valves tested on a AVO tester. 

Good advice. But, remember your manufacturer has to maintain a 0% risk policy and advise against anything that could establish liability for them if something goes wrong. Especially if asked on the record.

 

Good luck out there.

chickenoregg, Regarding the E80CC, Jim Hagerman probably would not approve on the same grounds by which he did not approve of the FQ7, the excess heater current requirement. And the FQ7 is more like a 12AU7 than is the E80CC.  The fact that you got away with subbing the E80CC with a 12AU7, and I got away with subbing the FQ7 for the 12AU7 in my Quicksilver preamp (with audibly positive results) have no bearing on the question of the Trumpet.

You asked about my statement, "Honestly, I think tube rolling is way over-rated and prone to expectation bias on the part of the listener." To which you responded, "I am genuinely curious to know what gear you rolled what tubes in to no or little effect?"

First, I did not and would not say there is NO effect, but I would say it has little effect, and here is what I mean when I say that: (1) Tubes age; any beneficial effect you hear at first is probably not going to last forever for that reason. (2) There is a lot of fraud these days in vacuum tube sales in that vendors know what audiophiles want and the market is replete with fake copies of TFK, Mullard, Amperex, etc, branded tubes.  That would deter me from making new purchases of rare NOS tubes for fear that they are copies. I do have a stash of all the named brands that I purchased NOS back in the 1970ss in their original boxes, mostly 12AX7, AT7, and AU7.  As well as 5687 and its congeners, and yadayada. I trust my stash but not some other guy’s recently purchased samples. (3) My prior experience tube rolling suggested to me that the expensive rare brands, even authentic ones, do not always sound as good as some of the modern tubes made in the far East or in Eastern Europe, let alone do they sound any better.  I will not make any generalizations, but when I compared a slew of different NOS 12AT7s at the input of my Atma-sphere amplifiers, probably about 20 years ago, the best sounding without any doubt were tubes made in China and purchased from Billington in the UK.  Problem with them was a short lifespan. (4) Tubes depend upon the contact points between the pins and the tube socket.  Tube sockets do not always age well or maintain a tight fit on the pins.  This alone can cause the sensation that performance is fading.  Few of us pay attention to that and even fewer of us clean tube pins and tube sockets periodically to assure good contact. (I do pins with Q tips and sockets with tiny wire brushes made for the job,) When you pull one tube and replace it with another, you are per se cleaning the tube socket by friction and by the fact that some dirt comes out with the pins of the old tube. That is one cause of a false positive sense of achievement. (5) Expectation bias is a real thing and every one of us is susceptible to it.

 

Fellow Trumpet MC enthusiast here, and I agree that upgrading to a linear power supply is worthwhile. And I tube roll anytime I switch my cartridge, I've got it down to a formula now for each cartridge and it works very well for me. 

To all,

thanks for conversation.

@chickenoregg 

I am impressed that you are willing to send out tunes on approval.  Please pm me, I would like to see if we can work together.

@lewm 

Thank you for your comments and advice.  Yes double the heater current was concerning to Jim, and he is very honest, so I am going to do what he advises.

To those who recommend the Sbooster, I asked about this too.  I noticed on looking over the schematics that Mr. Hagerman used a 555 “chip” as an internal power supply to get the voltage to the rails (at least that is what it looks like to me with my very limiter ability in that area).  So, if there is no way to bypass the internal switching power supply,, how would and external LPS make any real difference?  JH, basically had the same opinion and also said that some folks who tried it reported improvement.  
Given confirmation bias, etc., I would be happy to try an Sbooster if someone would loan one to me to try.  I would cover shipping both ways if needed.  Otherwise I am content to leave that out.

My new speakers should be here soon and I am pretty sure they will make a much more significant difference in the sound of my system.

 

555 is a timer, probably used to delay application of plate voltage after filament voltage is first applied after turn on.