My thoughts (and loose calculations) are that I should be able to get to STC 55 to 60 with either of the first 2 options, and with the in wall bass traps I'm feeling that would be a very good solution. Yes the 2 pound MLV would be better, but in my installation that is an additional $2,000 expense......and I'm already having to explain the need and extra costs to my wife. She is after all supporting the dedicated audio room after all
Help With Decision on Sound Proofing Dedicated Audio Room
Hello all,
I am in the process of building a dedicated audio room in my basement, and need help with reasonable sound proofing. I already have: 3 dedicated lines, whole house ground solution, network optimized, excellent room dimensions, solid doors, acoustic putty pads around electrical outlets, room treatment plan (with GIK Acoustic design), in wall floor to ceiling bass traps, etc. etc.
I am also decoupling the interior walls by using 6" plates, and staggering 2 x 4. I do need input on the sound proofing though. Here is what I am considering for both the walls and ceiling:
(Option 1) Double 5/8" drywall with Green Glue between sheets, screws not nails, and Rockwool Safe & Sound 3" insulation
(Option 2) Double 5/8" drywall with 1 pound mass loaded vinyl between sheets, screws not nails, and Rockwool Safe and Sound 3" insulation
(Option 3) Double 5/8" drywall with 2 pound mass loaded vinyl between sheets, screws not nails, and Rockwool Safe and Sound 3" insulation
(Option 4) 5/8" QuietRock 530, screws not nails, and Rockwool Safe and Sound 3" insulation
I am leaning towards either option 1 or 2, as option 3 is approaching unaffordability; and I have very little knowledge with option 4 and QuietRock 530. Input from anyone with experience here would be greatly appreciated.
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@vthokie83 You may want to consider isolating the drywall from the studs by way of furring channels. Home Depot charges about $10 per 12 foot length. I called around and found a local metal suppler who made the identical product for $4 each.
Channels are secured and isolated from the studs with Genie Clips.
This does require supporting the electrical boxes proud of the studs
In for a penny................... Cheers |
Mechanically ground the room from the top plate to the floor with plate steel at the top and the bottom. Would tell u more but don’t want to start a fight. Most rooms are designed around mass loading. The more mass the greater the storage potential just like a big ass capacitor except in this case with a poor result. TomD |
bigtwin and theaudiotweak I appreciate the input, but that is a bit more than I am willing to do; I know it would be better, but it's not in my plans. I'm mostly concerned with simply getting into the STC 55 or better range. In talking with a couple of different suppliers (including GIK My main question revolves around the wall and ceiling relationship between the two layers of 5/8" drywall, and what to install between the sheets. Some camps suggest Green Glue used at a rate of at least 1/2 a tube per sheet, or the 1 pound MLV, and some go further and suggest the 2 pound MLV |
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