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Replacing Conrad Johnson PV-10

Looking for recommendations in replacing Conrad Johnson PV-10.  It's been acting up.  Used to have to turn it on, then off, then on again to get both channels working...now only one channel is working regardless of what I do.  It may be time to say goodbye.  So, I'm starting here for suggestions.  Current setup is:

Enlightened Audio Designs T-1000 (transport)

Audio Alchemy Digital Decoding Engine V3.0 (DAC)

CJ PV-10 (preamp) 

Berning EA-2100 (amplifier)

Snell E-3 (speakers)

MIT MI-330 Plus (interconnects)

Kimber Kable 8TC (speaker cables)

Open to tube or solid state preamp and new or used.  Love my system, but just want it to work.  Ideal budget is below $2K.  Nearest dealer is several hours away, so want some help narrowing down options.  Any suggestions/thoughts would be very helpful.  Thanks!

 

 

jbeckley42
ghdprentice's avatar
ghdprentice
9,425 posts
 

Conrad Johnson components are excellent. I am a big fan because of their warm musical presentation. If it were me I would either. Have it repaired or find a used CJ preamp in my budget. 

You could probably send to CJ... they could recap it and repair. Or use a local  audio technnical shop. 

tubegb's avatar
tubegb
228 posts
 

Another vote for reviving your Conrad Johnson PV-10. It is a classic and deserves better than to be relegated to the audio electronics bone pile. 

tubegb's avatar
tubegb
228 posts
 

Another aspect to think about. You have a vintage system that appears to have satisfied for an extended period. Synergy is not to be underestimated. The PV-10 is at the core of your system. Changing it may introduce the slippery slope of a multitude of other changes... 

newbee
4,843 posts
 

"....no matter what I do". Dumb question time....did you change the tubes? I agree with others, the PV10 is a good pre-amp, worth fixing if you can. 

kevemaher's avatar
kevemaher
408 posts
 

Spray the switches and potentiometers with a good dose of DeOxit. Exercise the switches and pots ten times or more. Let the DeOxit dry thoroughly. Test again.

You'll have to take the top cover off to obtain access to the guts of the switches and pots.

I have disassembled and cleaned pots, sometimes with spectacularly good results. But I've also seen some that still wouldn't work. Disassembly usually showed that the contacts and contact strips had worn so much that contact could not be made.

Terminal if that's the case.

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