To antiskate or not antiskate

"A dr feickert woodpecker with a clearaudio unify 12 inch tonearm and lyra titan cartridge."

I thought the combination was unusual, now knowing it being dealer package, it's clear.

At half retail probably sounds REALLY good.

@iseland I previously ran a ChatGPT analysis on my tt/tonearm/cartridge combo (Rega Naia, Aphelion 2) and then applied the same process to your (very different pieces, not least a unipivot and a longer tonearm, which make a lot of difference). Take it for what it’s worth, but perhaps you’ll find the process and advice useful:

 

Practical setup method for your Woodpecker / Unify 12” / Lyra Titan

 

Set tracking force first
 

Get the Lyra Titan tracking at ~1.75 g using a real stylus gauge. Not just the counterweight scale marks. Lyra likes precise VTF.

 

Set minimal anti-skate / bias
 

On the Unify, that usually means:
 

If it uses a hanging weight and string: start with the lightest weight, or the innermost/lowest notch.

 

If it uses a dial-type system (some variants do): set something like ~0.3–0.5, i.e. very low.

 

Conceptually, think “just enough to not be literally zero,” not “match the grams.”

 

Play something with strong vocal ‘S’ sounds or splashy cymbals near the inner groove
 

Headphones help. Now listen:
 

If the right channel is the first to spit/break up on hot passages → add a hair more anti-skate.

 

If the left channel is the first to spit → you’re already running too much, back it off.

 

Do this at realistic listening level, not whisper quiet.

 

Stop as soon as it’s symmetrical
 

You are not chasing “perfectly no distortion at all ever” (records themselves aren’t perfect). You’re chasing “if there is stress, it’s equal in both channels.”

 

That symmetry point on a 12” unipivot with a Lyra MC is almost always reached with low anti-skate.

 

Visual check (super useful with a unipivot)

With the platter not spinning but the stylus resting in a normal groove halfway into a record:

Look dead-on from the front.

 

The cantilever should sit centered in the cartridge body, not pulled inward or outward.

 

The cartridge body should look level — not leaning left/right because the arm is being torqued by the anti-skate.

 

If the body is leaning outward (left channel down, right channel up), you’ve applied too much anti-skate and you’re twisting the unipivot. Back off immediately.

 

(This azimuth twist test matters more on your unipivot arm than it does on other types of arms, such as my Rega Titanium arm.)

 

 

I set up turntables all the time and one of the best, most consistent has been Dr. Feickert.  Atlas cartridges are also quite good.  Let's get back to antiskate.  What I do, no matter if AS is used or not in any given situation is to check the stylus for wear.  Usually twice per year is enough.  I use microscopes to do this.  I would be happy to do this for anyone for free, but in this day and age it might be easier to just buy yourself a digital microscope.  Anyway, the idea is to look to see if the stylus is wearing evenly and adjust AS accordingly.  Like I have said in other threads, the need for AS is complex and it varies.  Truly the need for AS varies across the arc of every record you play.

I haven't dug into the other threads here on this topic, but I have done a fairly thorough investigation of anti-skate and have some compelling experience with adjusting it.

First of all, just because you bought a 12 " tonearm, doesn't mean you're off the hook when I comes to anti-skate. Just watch J.R. Boisclair's video on the topic.

Second, as far as I know there is only one tool out there that will give you and accurate measurement of how much anti-skate you are applying, the WallySkater.

I have a WallySkater and have used it with several turntables and tonearms and I can tell you, without it you are just guessing.

Now, you will sometimes hear claims that certain tonearms sound better without the anti-skate applied. That may very well be the case, but the reason is not that that tonearm is defying the laws of physics and is immune to skating force. Rather it is because that tonearm has its own horizontal torque force and applying more is simply adding too much. Incidentally, this indicates that the tonearm has issues that should be addressed, such as tonearm wires that are twisted or stretched in a way that pulls on the arm.

My recommendation is to get a WallySkater, measure the anti-skate you are applying and get it to the recommended 18 - 20% of your VTF. Then make adjustments by ear using different records.

Classical orchestral records with complex passages are helpful, especially concertos where you have a soloist up front and the orchestra behind. When you have your tonearm set up well, and that includes getting the anti-skate right as well as other adjustments such as azimuth, the soloist will be more 3-D and the orchestra will be clearer and more present with the instruments in the back of the orchestra easier to make out.

This is just one approach, but it works well.

I've actually found that with both of my turntables, which are different and have different tonearms and cartridges, my records sound best with the anti-skate set closer to 17% of VTF, so a little below what Wally Tools recommends.

Good luck!

First of all,  thank you all for good advice and helpful input. 

I have used all the tools in my possession,  had another go with the protractor from feickert, digital scale from ortofon, larger libell from ortofon ( air bubble disc thing 😳) and mini air bubble thingy small enough to fit on the arm lift and adjusted every accordingly and it sounds fantastic without antiskate . The titan does anyway. 

Tomorrow I'm going to try my zyx 4d ultimate just for the fun of it,  that one might need AS but I will be back with an update 😃