Free Tip for Jumpers


If you have already replaced the stock jumpers on your bi wire speakers I found this to be a nice boost in sound quality. It was a Nordost section of Music Direct, FYI.

Enjoy!

Diagonal Bi-Wire

For those looking for maximum performance from their bi-wire speakers, Nordost has a recommendation. Connect your speaker wire to the speaker as follows: Red lead to the Red midrange/bass post, Black lead to the Black tweeter post. Then insert the Norse Jumpers as you normally would, sit back and hold on to your socks. The effect is astounding, with greater focus, detail and less haze and grain. We don't really understand how it works, but it does so try it for yourself!

pclay

@bdp24 - I get that many/most manufacturers do not use boutique wire and crossover parts, but some use better parts (mostly caps) where they believe it will make a sonic difference.  Standard OFC hook up wire is still 101% conductivity on the IACS scale, and certainly not “junk.” Therefore, perhaps the designer, who has presumably listened critically to their product, determined nothing more or different was needed.  Same with jumper plates, which, assuming they are gold-plated copper, would probably not affect the sound any more than the binding post themselves.  The results of listening tests on cross-connected binding post jumpers would be interesting to me.  The longer I do this, the more I question obsession vs. progression in this hobby.

 

Where the line is separating high SQ standards from obsessiveness is an interesting (and personal) question.

Nelson Pass used Mills resistors in his First Watt B4 crossover I own, because the cost of doing so (not cheap) was justified by the SQ that resistor affords. He made the B4 fully-discrete (no opamps or integrated circuits) for the same reason.

 

I wish someone would name the speakers that has the cheap internal wires and cheap crossover parts. My Audionote AN E LX has lexus internal wires and crossover has AN parts which is no way cheap 

I find it interesting that, in the Nordost write-up, they consistently refer to the “bass/mid terminals” and the “treble terminal” when every three-way speaker I have ever owned fed the midrange and tweeter from one terminal and the bass from the other terminal.  Isn’t a main selling point of bi-wiring the presumed sonic benefit of separating the bass driver demands from the midrange and treble frequency drivers? What manufacturer drives the bass and midrange drivers from one terminal and the treble/tweeter (only) from the other?