What going fully Class D has taught me.


Over the past year I’ve been working on a project to transform my main L and R 2-way speakers to active 3 way by adding a woofer tower with a 3-channel plate amp underneath.  This project is finally completed.  My Luxman integrated now sits dark and disconnected.  

The plate amps are made by Hypex, though I have previously used ICEpower based amps as well.  

What I can confidently say is that the old Class D memes have no reason to exist anymore.  I can also say I miss my Luxman sound for music.  

I’ve done this swap before.  I went from Parasound to ICEpower to Luxman, and while I really liked the Luxman sound I was still compelled to attempt a new speaker / amp project.  Many of my objectives have been met.  Very low distortion, high dynamic range, excellent off-axis response and seamless integration.  It sounds very transparent, and realistic for movies.  The low distortion makes high volume listening deceptive.  You don't realize how loud it is because there's absolutely no distortion.  Some of t

What am I missing?  The liquid smooth midrange, buttery treble of the Luxman, which was the main reason I went from Class-D to it in the first place.  What I don’t have is all the normal tropes that used to float around here about how bad Class D sounds.  It doesn’t, it actually sounds really good.  What I need now is a juicy smooth two preamp with HT bypass. 

erik_squires

After going through so many threads, one things is for sure - Class D's performance surely is confusing.

Sometimes, I think that is because people are so much used to Class AB that a small amplifiers running huge speakers affects them psychologically? But again there are a few threads where I have read some folks who were into SET amplification have found GaN amplification similar to SET amps and have switched to class D.

The only way to find out is by personally experiencing Class D. I was seriously thinking of NAD M23 v2, AGD Duet, any other Purifi based amps, etc.

The only way to find out is by personally experiencing Class D. I was seriously thinking of NAD M23 v2, AGD Duet, any other Purifi based amps, etc.

 

Exactly right. If a bear sings Puccini in the woods the only way to know if he's talented is to go listen for yourself. 

@milpai  - I really do think it's half old myths die hard but also, half is I've become accustomed to this tweaky, unique sounding 12 Watt Class A amp and the Class D amp I listened to for 30 seconds doesn't sound like it. 

Fine, fine, I’ll chime in. Over many years of experimenting in my own system, I have concluded that it’s the preamp that is the heart of your system’s electrical performance fingerprint. The amp simply makes the preamp’s sonic signature louder. For me, as I prefer the lush, rich, harmonic subtleties of tubes (yes, we can debate if that is “distortion” and if that is good or bad, etc.), I have found that employing the best tube preamp for your tastes/budget, and then amplifying that signal with whatever amp works best for your speaker’s unique electrical characteristics, is the best approach.

I’m not an electrical engineer, but I’ve come to believe, through lots of system configurations over the years, that the power amp is simply an extension of the electrical circuitry of your speakers. You might think of the amp as part of your speaker (I know I’m gonna catch flak for that, but that has been my experience). From that context, the amp simply does what the preamp tells it to, in order to “mate” with your speaker’s electrical characteristics. Things like impedance, sensitivity, etc of your speakers can help define the best amp for them, rather than focusing on the amp’s “sonic personality” per se.

I have had good results with modern class D amps to drive full-range speakers, with tube preamps up front. Certainly, for subwoofers, class D has clear advantages.

The good news? We have Audiogon to feed this addiction. It could be worse – we could be obsessed with vintage cars.  ;-)

 

I think you are right and it is even at low cost in my system my own experience too ...

yes

Fine, fine, I’ll chime in. Over many years of experimenting in my own system, I have concluded that it’s the preamp that is the heart of your system’s electrical performance fingerprint. The amp simply makes the preamp’s sonic signature louder. For me, as I prefer the lush, rich, harmonic subtleties of tubes (yes, we can debate if that is “distortion” and if that is good or bad, etc.), I have found that employing the best tube preamp for your tastes/budget, and then amplifying that signal with whatever amp works best for your speaker’s unique electrical characteristics, is the best approach.

I’m not an electrical engineer, but I’ve come to believe, through lots of system configurations over the years, that the power amp is simply an extension of the electrical circuitry of your speakers. You might think of the amp as part of your speaker (I know I’m gonna catch flak for that, but that has been my experience). From that context, the amp simply does what the preamp tells it to, in order to “mate” with your speaker’s electrical characteristics. Things like impedance, sensitivity, etc of your speakers can help define the best amp for them, rather than focusing on the amp’s “sonic personality” per se.

I have had good results with modern class D amps to drive full-range speakers, with tube preamps up front. Certainly, for subwoofers, class D has clear advantages.

The good news? We have Audiogon to feed this addiction. It could be worse – we could be obsessed with vintage cars.  ;-)