New Turntable Advice


Good Morning 

I's time for a change ! My current system is A VPI Prime with ADS speed control, on my second replacement cueing device, dual pivot added. With Ortofon Credenza Bronze MC cartridge, and Parasound JC3+ preamp.

What started search was just another let down with the VPI, cueing terrible, and the ADS couldn't bring the platter up to 45 RPM!!!

OK I'm heading in the direction of ~ $5000 table without arm or cartridge , Supa Trac Blackbird, and going to audition DS Audio W3. I was looking at a refurbished Nakamichi Dragon CT with album centering feature, but I think there maybe better technology from this vintage design.

So can you help with your advice on my next table, thanks Very Much

Bruno

 

badbruno

I want to gently push back on the "avoid vintage" advice. Not that I doubt people's individual experiences, but just that mine have been so positive.

 

I think that many belt drive turntables have a similar type of sound, at least when it comes to rhythm and pace and the like. I really enjoyed The tables I owned and used from Rega, Linn and Funk Firm. I still have a couple of them. 

 

But Idler Drive feels like a very different experience indeed. I'm glad that I departed from the belt-only world. I have a completely restored Thorens 124. The sense of force, pace and the feeling of inevitability to the unfolding of the tune is a different, and for now, better way to experience music. I know "inevitability" is a weird word to use in this context, but it is the one that comes to mind. 

 

If you buy a Thorens 124 or a Garrard 301/401 from a restorer (mine was STS Classic Turntables, but there are others), you will essentially be getting a new turntable anyway. They completely rebuild the motor, and also replace other parts as needed. Then you design the plinth to serve your needs/aesthetic. Mine has two tonearms and a mahogany top that I really like.

 

Anyway, another view on where to go...

David

I agree with dtorc,

I loved my Thorens TD-124, it produced the most solid bass I ever experienced, via SME 3009 and Shure V15Vxmr with beryllium cantilever, tracking at 1.0g.

The platter construction and weight is a big part I am sure, and the tolerance of the spindle and bearing is remarkable. It is such a precise fit that it takes several minutes for the heavy cast iron platter/polished spindle to descend into the bearing. It’s an air spring trapped within, I’ll never forget the 1st time I put mine back, I’m not exaggerating, I remember something like 7 minutes for the air to escape and complete descent into the bearing.

Unfortunately my wood floors are springy, and that bearing’s design is susceptible to any vertical vibrations, so I sold it, but ’Don’t Cry for me Argentina’

.

 

Ummm… who said anything about idler drive prior to the last two posts? Of course vintage idlers are easier to fix; there are no complex electronics that rely on outdated transistors or unavailable integrated circuits. And in the case of the TD124, you can have belt drive and idler drive all in one box. Yay. I am simply urging caution to any neophyte who might consider buying a vintage DD TT from a seller outside the US (assuming US buyer), unless blah blah blah.

There's an SP15 with an EPA100 arm available on eBay for $1476.89. Free shipping from Japan though you will have to pay a tariff.

@lewm I have a vintage Kenwood idler drive in my collection. I agree with you about the serviceability. I wonder what it's worth now with the vinyl revival?