Is bi amping worth it ?

It's definitely worth it for music and home theater.  I've done powered subwoofers and the bi-amping with a Yamaha AVR, but nearly all brands with mid to higher models have that option when they are 7 channels or more.

Then there is Y adapter from the main speaker output into a power amplifier (s) channels to have the ability to connect to your bi-amp speakers.  It really can open up the performance,dynamics and even clarity of the vocals and instruments. 

It all depends on your source, pre-amp or receiver, power amplifiers and finally the speakers. I have found that different combinations of brands of pre-amp or receivers, power amplifiers and speakers all act differently. 

High current with high power makes a big difference with receivers and even with power amplifiers, which translates to really opening up the abilities of decent  speakers to really good hi-fi speakers.

Best of luck with your endeavors in trying things out to get your desired results. 

@russbutton Interesting. So how much is an active crossover like an equalizer or are they completely different?

Also, what can the high end amps do to help vs the mid fi stuff? I use Parasound amps, John Curl design. I consider them mid fi but I do like them.

Sorry for dumb questions. I'm in kindergarten when it comes to electronics. 

Bi-amping can be complex, but it doesn’t have to be just to get  your feet wet.  You don’t have to start by realizing every theoretical benefit for bi-amping that exists for it to be beneficial.  There are many options, but each situation is different, so you really need to forge your own path.  I’d hate for people not to try bi-amping because of being intimidated by the choices....you’ll learn as you go.  You can start with something very simple....like adding an active subwoofer....just like that you’re bi-amping horizontally, very possibly with a benefit in SQ, relatively low cost, and minimal effort.

With the right active sub, you can run a high pass filter to the main amps to relieve them (and the main woofers) of some of the low bass duty.  You can experiment with running them through the HP filter, or full range, while you play around with placement, gain, polarity, and crossover frequency.  That offers  a very good opportunity to improve midrange via both the amp and the woofer’s new found freedom from the rigors of handling low bass.  Your sub (or subs) are better suited for the bottom octaves)  Just be cautious about featuring your thumping new sub over the rest of your system.

 
It’s not mandatory that you bypass your entire passive crossover (if  you have one), but it is something you can explore.  Removing a well designed high quality passive crossover and replacing it with an active crossover involves some serious challenges that not everyone will be up for. Even though there are advantages with active x-overs, there’s no guarantee you will like it better..it’s always subjective. If you’re starting from scratch there are a lot of advantages in choosing active crossovers, but there are some very fine passive crossovers out there too.  If it sounds good now with a single stereo amp, it will very likely sound good bi-amped, and has potential to sound better if an active crossover is executed well. 

Choosing the right frequencies, gain levels, polarity and slopes isn’t typically first-timer territory, but neither is it an insurmountable task.   My rig uses a combination of active and passive crossovers in a horizontal bi-amp configuration with an SS amp to the woofers, and tube monoblocks to the midbass and tweeters.  I bypassed the main woofer’s passive crossover, and replaced it with an active low pass filter that feeds a BK solid state amp below 63hz. It was pretty straight forward, simple to do, and came with some notable benefits. For the midbass/tweeters I use an inline high pass filter for the tube amps, but kept the passive crossovers in that section. I have some concerns about being able to replicate the coherency and blend I’m getting from the passive crossover, in spite of their known disadvantages.  They’re well executed with top notch parts, and sound right to me.   Maybe some day I’ll try bypassing them, and going full active, but it’s an ambicous move for a guy who’s pretty content with the way things are now.

Biamping has multiple benefits when properly done. That means using an electronic crossover and bypassing the existing crossover entirely. By removing the lowpass series inductor, you also remove the resistance that kills bass damping. It can also add up to 6dB dynamic range simply due to how amp level voltages sum up, so a 2x50W biamped system has the same dynamic range as a 200W non-biamped speaker. That opens up a whole different approach to powering (and taming) things like Klipsch KHorns and Cornwalls. In pro audio this isn't news - biamped studio monitors were common 50 years ago, and I designed triamped and even quad-amped live sound systems back then as well. 

As for "3. The following is my preferred solution which is to use a source (DAC) that has some DSP.  Purists will hate this idea but that's ok.  The DSP allows you to tailor the sound to your liking.  Adding a few dB of gain in the low bass region can really make a difference.  Again, I'd recommend auditioning something and playing with it for a weekend to see if it solves your issue." I couldnt agree more. Get a WiiM Ultra Music Streamer & Digital Preamp for a whopping $329(!) and you get not only a better than decent streamer and DAC, but a very nice graphic/parametric equalizer as well as DSP tuning. I just swapped one into my office system to help a bass-shy  but otherwise spectacular pair of Focals and am very pleased with the results.