Crossover Redo on my Amrita Audio Floorstanders

Can you still read the values printed on the crossover parts?  Unless you can find a schematic, that's likely your best option.  If they're not legible, my educated "guess" is that the measurable crossover values should still be pretty close to original since they're in a passive circuit.  If you measure the parts from both speakers you'll double your sampling number....if the parts are very close to each other, I'd think that'd be a pretty good starting point. 

I'd opt for non-inductive wire wound resistors vs typical sand cast.  Air core inductors are preferable to iron core IMO.  Try to get the DC resistance of the inductors as close as possible to the originals....a few tenths of an ohm change shouldn't make much difference, but close is good....obviously you want the inductive value to be as close as possible.  Good quality caps should help too.  Sonicap, Clarity Cap, Mundorf, Solen...there are dozens to choose from, and all have their fans.  Caps in particular can take a while to burn in, so be patient.

It'd be a good time to replace any ferro fluid if the Vifa tweeters originally had it.

Might as well upgrade the connectors to pure copper, and the wire if there's not something good in there already.

Dunno if this will help, but I found a discussion of the Amrita Audio speakers at DIYAudio.com https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/crossovers-for-amrita-towers.291004/

I was going to say that DIYaudio is THE place to go for advice on this kind of question. Lots of builders there.

I would NOT do a rebuild without understanding the original state of the speakers. I’m not sure about this brand, but for instance, Infinity had such wonky crossovers and impedance curves that attempting to replicate the original is a bad idea.  Some Focals are the same.

Assuming the original crossover design is worth keeping, you’ll need a DATS or similar to make sure you compensate for any changes in ESR or DCR of replaced caps and coils.

I just redid the crossovers in my speakers.  I used the exact same values but upgraded all the components and added bypass caps to the mids and highs.  I also verified the resistances on the inductors as this can change the performance of the system.

My new components were so large that I decided not to shoehorn them all inside and moved my crossovers outside the speakers.  

I spent over $3000.  You can see photos of the completed crossover in my virtual system.

The improvement was huge and at the same time subtle.   Very refined. 

Jerry

Thank you everybody so far. I appreciate the input and guidance.

If you can send me a pic of your crossover,  we can then talk about what you wat to achieve and I can then give you advice on what to upgrade