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Proac problem: tweeters or crossover?

Recently, something moved me to listen closely to the tweeters, and when I couldn't hear anything I hooked up the speaker cable just to the tweeter binding posts. I can't say there was no sound at all, because there was the faintest of recessed, tinkly sound that didn't seem to vary much with the level of the volume control.

I called up Modern Audio and they told me just to get the Scanspeak D2010s from Madisound. I soldered them in this morning. Now the new tweeters are a bit louder than before, but not nearly as loud and not as strong on the higher frequencies as I would have expected. They still sound subdued, recessed and tinkly/jangly, but not as much as before, and there's a bit more change in level when varying the volume control. This is as always with the cable hooked up only to the tweeter binding posts.

So...is this how they're meant to sound, or is there a problem with some component in the crossovers? If there is, it must be the same in both speakers' crossovers. I wish the result of the change-over had been less ambiguous: either virtually no sound, or a great improvement. Instead, it falls somewhere in between, but the result makes me think that I haven't solved the problem.

BTW, the Response 2.5s must be ~17 years old. Custom yew finish bought new from Accutronics in Ann Arbor in 1998/99. The mid-woofers still sound great.

Does anyone know what a Proac tweeter driven in the way I've described should sound like when it's functioning correctly?
128x128twoleftears
timrhu
2,779 posts
 
With the crossover at 3kHz as Almarg stated, I think what you are hearing is normal. I had a pair of Paradigm Studio 60s that experienced a tweeter failure, the dome disintegrated. When I replaced it I first listened to the tweeter separately as you are doing and heard what you described. I compared it to the good speaker's tweeter as I was concerned.
You could measure the resistance of the tweeter and see if there is any difference between speakers. If there is a difference then there may be an issue with the crossover, but as you say both sound the same I doubt it. As for break in, not the issue here.
The real question is, how do the speakers sound when being played normally? I think you purchased an extra set of tweeters.
zd542
5,339 posts
 
"The SR Signature 2/3s are like this: at the amplifier end, there is a spade, immediately after which the cable splits into two, so there are two separate runs, physically, all the way to the speaker. I don't know what's going on inside, but the run for the woofer is thicker, which is the only way you can tell the two of them apart."

What they did was take 2 separate pairs of speaker cables and terminate them at the amp end with the same spades for easier connection. Otherwise you would have to double up and put 2 sets of spades in 1 binding post because most amps only give you 1 pair to work with. Since Synergistic always recommended using the 2's and the 3's together, they ended up taking the exact setup you have with the 2 pairs terminated together at the amp end, and wrap both pairs in 1 sleeve, making it look like one pair of cables. They renamed it the Signature 10.

What I said about them in my first post still applies. Given your problem, and how different those speaker cables sound from each other, I wouldn't want them in the system until you solve your problem. So you can either use different cables, or just connect 1 of the 2 pairs of the Synergistic to the speakers and use the binding post jumpers. Just be sure to cover the spades on the cables you don't use. And it doesn't matter which pair you use. Try it both ways and pick ones that sound best.

"The real question is, how do the speakers sound when being played normally? I think you purchased an extra set of tweeters.
Timrhu (System | Reviews | Threads | Answers | This Thread)"

That's a good question. After reading your post again, I can't tell if the problem exists during normal operation. A assume there's a problem otherwise you wouldn't post.
almarg's avatar
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almarg
9,670 posts
 
Regarding my suggestion of a test record or CD providing 1/3 octave warble tones, Stereophile's Test CD 3 appears to be suitable (specifically tracks 17, 18, and 19), and is available here. Further description is provided here.

A possible limitation of that particular test CD, though, is that as far as I can tell it may not provide separate tones for the left and right channels. If so, and given that your Ayre integrated amp apparently does not provide a balance control, you would probably have to disconnect one speaker, or one input channel to the amp, in order to accurately assess the other speaker.

Good luck. Regards,
-- Al
pbnaudio's avatar
pbnaudio
1,610 posts
 
You could try to replace the two capacitors in the XO, you can find suitable replacements here 4.7uF Capacitors and here 3.3uF Capacitors The XO calls for a 3.4uF, the 3,3 will suffice but if your a stickler bypass it with one of these 0.1uF bypass Cap

It would be veery unlikely that the capacitors have failed, however like Dover
I can recall some Solen Caps fail many years ago.

Best of luck

Peter
audioconnection
1,270 posts
 
Having sold Proacs for 24 years
It could be a simple fix.
Unscrew and remove both top tweeter section knurled binding post nobs.
Insert carefully a small blade screwdriver into the hole and gently tighten the top binding posts clockwise a half turn till snug if its still loose go for another half turn but do not over tighten.
If this seems to get back your volume you are set.
If its still intermittent removing the woofer and get into the crossover board connection area and clean up the star washer x over board area where the binding posts meets the board will complete this.
Hope this works for you
JohnnyR
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