Best products for baffle material s ?


Looking for the "best" combination of materials. Building new boxes for my B&W CM1 bookshelfs as I can feel vibration on the baffle and sides, with classical music, quartet, at even very modest volume. These are very small 2 ways - so I can afford to go "all-out" on the boxes. High mass, inert, shaped baffle to minimize diffraction, interior design to break up waves. I'm considering only products that can be "woodworked". More detail later. Thanks.
ptss
Chayro - you have things completely backward. It's building resonant, colored cabinets that is completely trial-and-error, and based on misguided theory. Strong, massive, resonance free cabinets ARE better.

The job is to create an instrument as true to the source as possible. And cabinet resonances, intentional or not, are pure 100% distortion that are delayed in time and uncontrollable in relation to volume.

If the designer intends to create a colored/innacurate music reproducer, there are ways one can do that in a controlled and predictable way. Cabinet resonances are not. The reality is that some companies choose to make resonant boxes not for performance reasons but budget reason, they are always much cheaper and much simpler to build. They then tell the marketing dept to come up with ways to obfuscate the truth.
Vapor1 - You misinterpreted my post. I am saying that the OP
believes that if he builds a heavy enclosure, it will
automatically be superior to the one he has now, which he
believes vibrates. He may well end up preferring what he has
now. I am saying that cabinet design is much more complex
that gluing together some heavy pieces of material. And
Vapor1, if you're saying that Harbeth and Spendor speakers are
built on misguided theories, well - I guess you have the right
to your opinion.
I'm not sure using identical height and width would be ideal. In some designers more ambitious designs they use triangular baffles, or at the very least sides with different dimensions.
Thanks Vapor. I have noticed some rosewoods have very high figures for density and hardness; they're sometimes condidered ironwood.I didn't know if the output from the relatively low output B&W would be strong enough to excite granite?
Chayro - I agree cabinet design is more complex, but he is at least asking the question. And I have vast experience I'm willing to share. So by the end, he'll have some knowledge needed to make good decisions. Would I say that Harbeth and Spendor are based on misguided theories? For the most-part, no but purposefully introducing energy storage and uncontrolled resonances to introduce some 'color', absolutely is a misguided approach. Color can be added without all negatives of a resonant box, reality is it costs money and time, and it's easier/cheaper to let the marketing dept try and convince people that it is actually a good thing.

Regarding baffle dimensions, it's the size of the baffle, position of the tweeter on said baffle, and shape of baffle edges (square, chamfer, roundover, and size of chamfer or roundover) that determine the diffraction signature. Typically with less than a 1" roundover there is a 2-3db diffraction dip around 3000hz. This dip is often accounted for in the crossover by adjusting the knee to bring up the diffraction suckout area. That's broad strokes, but gives a good general idea of what's important. Much better than adjusting the crossover to bring up the diffraction area is to build a baffle/cabinet that eliminates the destructive point-source diffraction. If the designer of the speakers you're building says no account was made in the crossover for the diffraction dip, you can incorporate large roundovers as long as you keep the baffle dimensions within an inch of intended. Because the baffle dimensions also impact the boundary reinforcement of the tweeter, which impacts it's bottom end extension. FYI, the area below the woofer on the baffle is of minimal importance. So if you keep the tweeter located where intended on the baffle (center, left, right), baffle width the same, and distance from top edge of the baffle to the tweeter all the same, then you can for instance make it into a floorstander and keep the tweeter response the same. That can have a slight impact on bass, typically means more reinforcement or more bass. But you're only talking 1/2db to 1db at most.

Ptss - you'd be surprised how much energy even small drivers can dump into a cabinet. The magnet systems are extremely efficient, where drivers are much less efficient is coupling to air. But yes, even with smaller drivers cabinet construction can be critical.