Building stands for Harbeth 40.2's


I talked with my builder today. I told them I would reach out for more expert opinions on a final design.

Since the TonTragers are the benchmark for Harbeth stands, I'm trying to match them as much as possible.

Question 1- The TonTragers have a 1 inch riser in each corner of the top of the stand. Is this critical for optimal sound ? Or would it be sufficient for the speaker to sit flat on the top of the stand ?

Question 2- Obviously the top needs to be open except for the exterior frame, but can the base be a solid flat piece of wood...or should that be open also ?

Please chime in with any ideas...also I plan on using some good cone spikes on the bottom.

I've attached a pic of the TonTrager for reference for the above questions.

Thanks in advance.

krelldog

I have the TonTrager stands for my Harbeth HL5. If you want to do a true clone the bottom should be open with no spikes! The one inch risers should be on the bottom the same as on the top!

TonTraeger stands

I have the 30.2XD’s

Resonance dissipation and decoupling:
Extended tenons -  top AND bottom - allow direct absorption of cabinet resonances and decouple the speaker from the ground.

the extended tenons on top of mine have routered out oval “dimples” in the extended tenons - “tone beds” are explained below ,,,, the tenons are not flat …It matters too,

https://www.tontraeger-audio.com/lang/en/produktdetails-stands.html

I know that the 40.2’s have the extended tenons too, and it appears that they also have the routered out “dimpled “ tone beds in their model extended tenons.

Extended Tenons

  • The frames of the audio boards are joined with a mortise and tenon joint.
  • The so-called "extended tenons" are evolved out of the wood connection to form the four contact points for the speaker.
  • The upper tenons absorb cabinet resonances.
  • The lower tenons serve to decouple external influences.
  • The "extended tenons" replace the use of spikes.

ToneBed

  • An oval hollow on top of the tenons ( routered out) reduces the contact surface to achieve maximum form fit.
  • The ToneBeds prevent vibration bridges.

 

I would not chintz it …if it’s too much for you, then give it up , step down, and chooses a larger mass speaker stand & save the $$

resonant woods (ones i have), skylans and sound anchors are fine too

best for bbc heritage speakers to have an open frame design though, if you adhere to the purists...

Have you considered Sound Anchors stands?  I have seen them used fairly often with Harbeth speakers and they make stands dedicated specifically for the Harbeth Monitor 40 line.  The cost for their Signature Stands is a little less than the cost of the TonTraeger stands, and they may be a good trade-off compared to the time, materials, and skill required to achieve a suitable DIY result.  Just a thought.  Good luck getting exactly what you want.