Unledd I missed it the room is as important as the sub. The room (acoustics) are covalent to sub/speaker sound.
The room becomes less of a factor the more subs you add. With a swarm (4 subs) the room becomes almost a non issue.
Is There A Big Difference Between Subwoofers From Different Manufacturers
This is likely the last thread I’ll be posting about subwoofers.
I was just wondering if there is really a big difference between subwoofers from different manufacturers if the quality of the subs (which is mostly governed by the specifications) are fairly similar. Also, with the assumption that the set up is properly done to ensure a seamless integration with the main speakers.
There have been many comparisons or experiences on subwoofers shared by members here on this forum, people who upgraded their old sub to a new seemingly superior sub. Or people who added additional subs to the system which contributed to an overall improved bass performance. I’m referring to the former, the comparison between single subs.
To cut to the chase, I understand high quality subwoofers which are essentially higher spec designs will usually produce better performance than lower spec subs. When people upgrade their subs, I assume the new subs are superior in terms of specification, either a larger sub with larger drivers, higher power output of the internal amplifier, lower frequency extension or the combination of any of the above.
Has anyone compared subs which are fairly similar in quality or performance when upgrading from the old sub?
Example. If someone upgraded from a REL T7x to an SVS SB-3000 or SB-4000, I suppose the SVS would be an upgrade since they come with larger drivers, higher power output, everything superior spec-wise. What if the models are closely spec’d? Will the subs sound fairly similar or closer to each other ?
Say, the comparison between
SVS SB-3000/4000
Rythmik F12SE / F15
REL S510 / S812 / Carbon Special or Limited
I presume the subs will still sound slightly different but the difference may not be night and day if the quality or specifications are closely matched?
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Are you speaking about a line-level HP filter like the Vandersteen M7-HP High-Pass Filter? If that is so easy or simple, then why does the M7-HP appear to consist of multiple components assembled on a circuit board at a price of $3,300/pair? I am not challenging your comment but rather trying to understand. The quality of a line-level HP filter is so important because the entire signal going to the main speakers passes through it. I doubt the HP filters provided in most subs are of a sufficient quality to handle that task without affecting the sound of the main signal in some way. The M7-HP filter (i.e., balanced line-level) is exactly what I need except I would want the pass frequency at 50Hz instead of 100Hz, and I would like to pay less than $3,300. Based on the sonic benefit of relieving the main amplifier of reproducing the lowest level signals when subs are used, I am surprised there are not more aftermarket products like the Vandersteen filters or more information about how to construct a high pass filter using high quality parts. At least one manufacturer includes a HP filter input in their amplifiers - the Aesthetix Atlas, but I know nothing about the quality of that filter. Do you know of any websites where I might learn more about constructing a line-level filter like the M7-HP? |
No it doesn’t. The work done by Toole is for even bass everywhere, not accurate bass anywhere.
No, an inline filter between pre- and power amps. THERE SHOULD BE NOTHING BUT WIRE BETWEEN THE POWER AMP OUT AND THE LS DRIVER TERMINALS. If everyone would multi-amp, the world would be a better place... and a lot of cable controversy would evaporate. I shudder every time I think about rollercoaster speaker phase response. 😢 Doubly so when tube amps are mentioned. The math makes my head spin. 😕 |
I have a small system near field listening with Canton 9k 2 way stand mounted so I purchased an SVS sb 1000 pro before the price increase. I emailed Canton in Germany and asked the best frequency range to set the cross over and they got back to me the next day (impressive between 50 and 60 hz 24 dB roll-off ) I do not have the luxury to do the craw to optimize the placement of the sub they sit next to the cantons. Why, my family considerations hold sway on placement and size and I suspect in most homes this is true the tail does not wag the dog. the SVS app has quite a bit of flexibility and control ( read about it) and you make changes at your listening position (sweet). The sub can be easily and seamlessly integrated with the Cantons. Having said all this what I experience is dictated by what's playing upstream that is to say some CDs have great bass other CDs not so much. Consequently, my sub can sound boomy and muddy as well as crisp and tight based on the CD being played. Be that as it may, in all cases the SVS sb1000 pro is a bit underpowered currently set at 9+ out of 10 on its power output. I should have gotten the next size up but again I was told no big ugly boxes and you spent how much on those things. Ah, the price of domestic tranquility. |
@ieales - Maybe I do not understand. The Vandersteen M7-HP is in fact "an inline filter between pre- and power amps". It has an XLR input and output and is intended to be situated between the preamp and the power amp. The purpose would be to roll off the bass frequencies before they are sent to be amplified by the main amplifier and sent to the main speakers. A separate full-frequency line-level feed would then be sent from the preamp to the line level inputs on the subwoofers where their internal low-pass filter would determine the HF cut-off. In essence, this type of set-up is multi-amping because you have one amplifier powering the main speakers and the internal subwoofer amplifiers powering the subs. |
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