GIK Vicoustic and others

Hello,

Years ago I was in the same boat. I researched insulation for audio with rock wool. Try to leave a 2” gap between the Rockwool and the space above it. It is better than stuffing the whole space with the insulation. Please call the companies about a referral of what to get. As said above try not to have skyline defuse panels behind you if you are close. It sounds really weird. First reflection points first. You can try this out with a small blanket or towel pined on the wall. I love the idea of the bass traps but you are very limited do to room size. In most cases you are going to have the speakers on a short wall so you can get some space in the front and back. Otherwise you will be dealing with slap back from the rear wall. Since you are doing this from scratch I know their are ways to do some of this by actually using the wall and ceiling cavity. I know plywood is so expensive but I am thinking of doing a plywood room/ drilling holes and maybe using some carbon fill. Great for bass control. Then, worry about reflection points. I want to do the carbon fill in my room since I have a 12” raised platform for stadium seating. Just to let you know. After you get the room done you can control the rest with power cables. I would call Straightwire and get their recommendations for cables. One your room and gear is in. Anything you need to tweak or correct the sound they can help. Most people would be surprised by how good even their affordable lines cost. If you are doing subs please stick to sealed box with good brands like JL Audio, Rel, and a few others that are more specialized but are designed for two channel. I hope this and one of these acoustic companies can make your room great. 

I’ve been a GIK customer for several years. As expressed to others on the Gon, they had QC issues pre pandemic. For instance, poor build quality; peeling surfaces; sloppy folding of fabrics; and rectangular enclosures with obtuse angles. They were responsive to my complaints, and the replacements met expectations. I’d recommend them if your expectations are lowered for speed and quality. 

As well stated above, you are doomed without sufficient bass trapping. That’s where the $ needs to go first. All 4 corners 12-16” diameter for the lowest fundamentals and to tame the standing waves, eliminate nulls. 

If you are handy and want to DIY some acoustic panels here is an excellent video:

IMO if you have a limited budget for listening room sound treatment you will be better off spending your funds on in-room treatments (absorbers, diffusers, bass traps) than on extra layers of drywall and insulation. I've heard several standard construction listening rooms that sound great, including mine, and if you sell your house someday you will not not recover the audio related construction expense.

@ei001h 

"why double dry wall if you’re already using rock wool ? Where did you instal spray foam ? Why is glue important?"

I live in a quiet  neighborhood, but there are still neighbors with leave blowers, chain saws etc and the ever present AC compressors.
So I double studded the room which left enough room for spray foam (do not do this your self) and rockwool.  Then double "Quiet Rock" dry wall with green glue in the middle. Makes for rather wide window sills!

To answer your questions directly: I made the room as sound-proof as possible.
The spray foam and rock wool are admittedly overkill, but I had to have some insulation as it's an above ground room on a slab.

Order of events was: double framing then spray foam then rockwool then Quiet Rock then Green glue then quiet rock.

Green Glue may or may not be important to you...my system can easily overload the room so I'm throwing the kitchen sink at SOUND PROOFING.  Not to be confused with acoustic treatments. 

To be clear: my goal was to make the room impervious to external noise, and secondarily to music escaping.  The room is dead quiet which IMO will raise the level of any set-up you end-up with.  

You're on the right path.

Regards,
barts